VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Engine Removal 1922 Chevy "490"

I have to remove the crankshaft pulley so I can remove the timing cover. I would like to inspect the three gears.
I want to lift out the engine so where would be the easiest spot to disconnect it. Any help would be great. Thanks Mike

Mike I recently removed the engine from my '25 sedan. I disconnected the ball joint at the rear of the transmission and removed the engine and transmission together. It was very easy when you have the hood and radiator off. I took off the bolt on stuff like the manifolds and generator assembly etc.first.

That sounds good. I have the hood, the radiator,water pump and fan, oil pump, vacuum tank and carburetor all off now.I will remove the starter.Did you have to remove the steering column? Did you put the car up on stands? Thanks Mike.

Hi Mike.
The 1922 engine and the 1925 engine are two different drive trains as the engine and gearbox on the 1922 is the same as 1918 thru 1924 are separate units whereas the 1925 has the gearbox connected to the engine at the clutch housing.
To get the 1922 engine out you disassemble the gearbox from its support and move it rearwards as far as possible on the propeller housing, disassemble the clutch/brakepedal mechanism and the rear motormounts, and also the front bolts from the front frame. then you can lift and move the engine forwards/up over the front frame by tilting it.
I may have some photos of when I took my engine out of my 1919 and 1924, contact me on my e-mail olles.rv6@telia.com

Olle

I didn't have to remove the steering column. Ollie is correct; the '24 and older had a different set-up. He could lead you through the process better than I can. Also, take photos of as much as you can before disassembling anything. If something causes the project to stop you might need a photo to help remember how things went back together.Enjoy your project.

It is not necessary to remove the steering column. I strongly recommend putting the car on stands, both rear and front.

If you need to remove the transmission I agree with Steve. If not, you can do as I did ten years ago. But I must tell you that I am an amateur! I have removed the engine just once, and that was my first engine removal in my then about 60+ year long lifetime (now 72).

So I removed the pedal axel and the V-shaped rear engine/transmission support and the the six bolts that keeps the clutch hub and the clutch hub drive together. When I removed the engine, with a good, movable support under the transmission, I could slide the engine forewards one inch or so, and then I lift it, with some degree of tilting down the rear end of the engine.

If you are going to remove the transmission, you can do as I did, I removed it after I had removed the engine. You can also do as Steve says, but I am not sure the construction of the U-joint is same on 1922 and 1925 models. Anyway, on 1922 model I have found that the process is quite tricky. After you have loosened the U-joint ball you can push the ball a little more than one inch backwards on the propeller shaft housing. Then you disassemble the U-joint, four bolts and nuts. Then you should be able to lower the propeller shaft enough to remove the transmission backwards.

If it is not possible to lower the propeller shaft, adjust the stands for the rear end, or just rise the rear end a bit with a jack, to press the springs enough, because then the propeller shaft moves backwards.

When you assemble the U-joint, wich is quite tricky, be careful to note the notch that shows how the parts must be put together. If you don't, maybe you cannot turn either the propeller shaft or the transmission. Guess how I know!

The clutch is in my opinion quite tricky to disassemble, so if it is not nessecary, maybe it is better to let it be on the engine when you remove the engine.

I have some pictures, let me know if you want me to sen them.

Good luck!

Thank you for the advice.I have to remove the timing cover to see why the cam and distributor are not turning.Pistons are moving up and down. Transmission and clutch should be fine.This is my first attempt at removing and engine.What color should I paint the engine? Mike

Would really like to see your pictures of the engine removal on the 1922 Chevy. Thanks Mike

OK, send me an email, you'll find it on my profile.

Was able to remove the engine today. Thanks for all your help.Turns out the cam gear is stripped, the oil hole to the crank gear was plugged with dirt and the gears were dry. The crank and generator gears are steel so are good but the cam is fiber and teeth broke. I will need a new cam gear. Thanks Mike

Mike you might be able to get a cam gear from Gary Wallace. Limited supply. (http://earlychevyparts.com/)Each timing gear is $195. The Filling Station is out of stock and not likely to restock they told me. Gary may be the only game in town. I just bought a set last week for my '25 I'm rebuilding.Good luck with your project.

Thank you. Will give Gary a call.

I believe I have a new four cylinder camshaft gear. If you give me dimensions and number of teeth I can check it. for you. Also bore diameter where it mounts. I am in Oshawa.

There were two cam gears for four cylinder engines. 1916-26 used a 5/8" thick gear while '27-28 used a 13/16" gear. The correct gear would have 52 teeth and a 7/8" (.875") mounting bore hole. Originals were steel but most replacements are fiber.

Cabboy
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