VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 6-volt Versus 12-volt discussion. Again

Hey Chevy fans. After a few years of my '29 4-door Sedan resting comfortably in the garage I am back to working on her.

I completely flushed the fuel, changed the plugs (.040), checked the fuel pump, fixed a burned out wire to the ammeter and a few minor things. She starts within 2-3 seconds.

I know this has been discussed before many times but I think we all learn from refreshing our memories and some of us (ME) need more help than others.

As stated on here a few years ago (before I went out of town to work), My '29 runs on a 12-volt battery. Not totally converted over to a 12-volt like I originally thought. The only evidence I see is that it is running on a 12-volt battery. About two weeks ago I replaced the old 12-volt battery with a new one I just purchased.

Thanks to AntiqueMechanic, Junkyard Dog and Chipper for answering my previous questions about my car.

Before I get to my question here is what I have:

1929 Chevrolet Sedan.

Specifications:

Body:
Job Number 8850 (1929 Standard Sedan)
Body Number K 7038 (Car built in the Kansas City, Missouri factory and it was the 7,038th Standard Sedan built in that factory in 1929.)

Engine In-Line 6-Cylinder:
835501 (Block casting number used in both 1929 and 1930).
C 31 0 (Block cast on March 31, 1930) (1930 engine instead of a 1929).
Stamped 1696848.

Distributor:
Model 633 G.
Serial 913792.

Fuel pump:
1696848 (1930 engine serial number) (April, 1930 serial number).

Generator:
Delco-Remy:
Model 943J (Correct for 1929).
Serial 65126.
Cut-off Relay TRANSPO-CN D100-1161.

Starter:
Model 714-L.
Serial 894421.

Coil:
ECHLIN w/ Ballast Resistor (No voltage marking on the coil).

Spark Plugs:
ACDELCO C87.

Tillotson Carburetor (After Market) (Carter was original).

Previous owner added a under the dash toggle kill switch (probably a 20-30 amp) between the starter and the ammeter.

My car starts and runs great except it burns out the dash (Instrument panel) lamp (LL 5007) like crazy. The voltage at the Battery with my Multimeter reads 12.5 volts as rest and around 13.8 volts running. With the engine running the voltage at the dash lamp reads 14.5 volts. I use a jumper lead to ground the socket while testing.

With the engine running my coil across the terminals read 4.7-5.0 volts. The ballast resistor may be effecting the input.

It looks like I have everything set to go back to a complete 6-volt system.

Everything looks okay except I am unsure of the Coil and the need for the ballast resistor.

1. I can't tell about the coil (6-volt versus 12-volt). If there actually is a difference. How do I test the voltage? Or just go ahead and replace it?

2. Do I need the ballast resistor? Does it hurt to keep it in use? Even if I replace the coil and battery.

3. Is she ready to go back to just replacing the battery with a 6-volt and replace the lamps down to 6-volt like the 63 instead of the 5007 instrument and dome lamps?

4. Should I remove the in-line kill switch no matter what I do?

Sorry about the long note but I wanted to try to give you all you might want to know for any advice.

Pictures available upon request.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

1. I can't tell about the coil (6-volt versus 12-volt). If there actually is a difference. How do I test the voltage? Or just go ahead and replace it?

1. Purchase a 6-volt coil (a coil for the 1954 Chevrolet is a good choice).

2. Do I need the ballast resistor? Does it hurt to keep it in use? Even if I replace the coil and battery.

If you use the 1954 coil, a ballast is not needed.

4. Should I remove the in-line kill switch no matter what I do?

The in-line kill switch is not a problem. It would function like an ignition switch.

I think most of us would strongly urge you to convert back to all 6-volt. A well maintained and tuned 6-volts can fight on it's own.

6volt 6volt 6volt

1. I can't tell about the coil (6-volt versus 12-volt). If there actually is a difference. How do I test the voltage? Or just go ahead and replace it?
i bought a new one to be safe, from o-Reillys BWD E5, no issues, and i got a spare to be safe !! well worth the $20

2. Do I need the ballast resistor? Does it hurt to keep it in use? Even if I replace the coil and battery.
nope, not one on my 1929

3. Is she ready to go back to just replacing the battery with a 6-volt and replace the lamps down to 6-volt like the 63 instead of the 5007 instrument and dome lamps?

4. Should I remove the in-line kill switch no matter what I do?
i have a kill switch in mine, i will use it when i park it to break the power to the car, and then allow me to put the battery on the tender :) keep it charged keep it happy

also i bought a optima red top 6v, way more power and such versus the old 6volt i had.

Thanks Guys,

I switched out to a 6-volt battery (not an Optima unfortunately). She definitely cranks slower but eventually starts. All the voltage readings look good. She is purring like a kitten.

I will run it a while before I decide to bypass the Ballast Resistor. It does not seem to effect anything that I can tell at this point.

I am switching out the lamps with #63 (dome and dash), #1154 (taillight/Brake Light) and to a Filling Station FS-17 Headlight.

Luckily I had all the lamps around except the 1154's. I had bought the FS-17 years ago and forgot I had them. I bought a pack of 8.

I have other items for discussion but will bring those up in separate posts.

Thanks.

Check the size of the battery cables and also make sure that you have a good, clean connection to ground (engine or frame).

The 6v starting systems need larger cables to be able to deliver the correct amps to the starter.

Cheers, Dean

I will double check the size of the cables. The speed of the cranking may be normal. Not sure.

Currently I have a ground strap and the positive cable is about the size of my pinky.

Does that seem correct?

Only if you have a very large pinky

Good point. I thought of that after I posted it.

The 6 volt positive battery cable should be as large as your thumb.....or larger if you have a small thumb. I have a 0000 gauge cable on my car but a 00 gauge cable should work great.

Thanks Junkyard Dog.

I have seen previous post on this site. I will try to locate one of those sizes.

This weekend I installed the 4/0 battery cable from the positive side to the starter. I was very surprised at how flexible it is. It took me a while to get the right battery terminal fitting but all is good. It does seem to crank about the same as the old one but that is because the one that was on there before I believe was a 2/0.