Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#389666 05/23/17 01:32 PM
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Just wanting to confirm that there is no way to center the steering wheel on my 1937 Master Coupe (GB) without bending the drag link or left spindle arm.

Right now when driving straight ahead the bottom steering wheel spoke is at about 5 o'clock. When I disconnect the drag link the steering gear travel is centered when the spoke is at 6 o'clock (straight down).

On my car the steering wheel is keyed to the steering shaft so that will assemble only one way. I have not removed the pitman arm but I think it will only assemble one way. The drag link is not adjustable and the steering arm on the left spindle forging has no adjustment. The tie rod adjustment only sets the relationship between the right and left wheels (toe-in which I have adjusted).

Am I missing something?

Thanks,


Rusty

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As you have assumed there is no way to center the steering gear/wheel.


Gene Schneider
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I just looked at my spare steering pieces and the Pitman arm is indeed splined on mine.
I do recall the manual for my 38 showing adjusting the steering gear to center the wheel but don't fully trust my memory...

Just saw Gene's post. What about shimming one end of the steering gear?

Last edited by canadiantim; 05/23/17 01:44 PM.

1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
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Thanks Tim & Gene,

It's definitely not anywhere near the top of the list of "things to fix" around here!

I am sure I could find multiple ways to correct it but the effort is not worth the results for me.

I'm having too much fun running around town in it. Saturday I was at the tapping of a keg at one of our local breweries. When you show up in an 80 year old car people are definitely interested.


Rusty

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As I recall the 37 wheel is mounted on a keyway and such it only goes on in one position. Any adjustment is elsewhere. The 38 wheel is splined and therefore has a multitude of positions for adjustment.

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Lou Offline
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1937 and older Chevys have a taper key to attach steering wheel.
1938 and newer use splines but also have a key so they can be used with older Chevys. The pitman splines will allow in to mount only one way and function. By inserting washers as shims in the far end of your drag link adjustment, you can clock the steering wheel.

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Hi Lou,

Thanks for the information. I understand how that will adjust the ball on the steering arm in relation to the ball on the pitman arm to re-position the wheel. I think you can only "lengthen" the drag link by placing shims behind the inner ball socket at each end. The only way I can see to "shorten" the arm would be to remove material from the back of the inner ball socket or the spacer behind it.

I am planning to replace kingpins in the next few weeks. After I do that will be a good time to work with drag link.

I will let you know what I determine.


Rusty

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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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i guys this is my first master deluxe 1938 and my stearing there is to much slack on how do i fix many thanks

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If it's not worn beyond repair there are adjustments you can do. The best thing you can do is buy a repair manual. There are reprints available for a nominal cost. Just Google it. The procedure is outlined there in detail.


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1938 HB Business Coupe
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Here is the instruction in the online copy of the manual. 1938 Shop Manual


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I have mine in a hundred parts I was just putting the steering box back in no matter how I did it to put the pitman arm on I had to turn the steering shaft which put the key of to one side. I will look to see which way I need to go and either shim or remove metal from parts in the drag link . I replaced balls and all new parts in drag link but all the parts except seal went back in steering box . Putting Banjo steering on and I don't want it off center. This place is alot of help I was about to lose it.

The Honer

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I just went back to the car backed off the plugs as I would need to lengthen mine,you would need to cut the plug in half to make up for the shims. I don't think you can shim or grind your way out of this problem. I have not gotten rid of my old parts I measured all parts new and old as best I could I have 40 years as a machinist I did not use a ball mic but not needed, not enough difference to make it not work a thou here a thou there is not going to move the wheel 20 degrees.


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