VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 33 MASTER OIL PAN GASKETS

I apologize if there is already a post on this, but my search came up empty. I am replacing my oil pan gaskets and I have most of the stove bolts/screws out and there are two bolts at the rear of the pan I assume must also come out, is that correct?, Seems odd to have those bolts in addition to all the screws. In addition, will I clear the rear cross member once I have the pan free. Even if I get it out, seems it will be tough getting it back in and the gaskets property aligned. Should I use permatex on both sides of the gaskets?

The front and rear of the oil pan had hex headed 1/2 inch (socket) hex headed bolts. tHESE BOLTS ARE LARGER IN DIAMETER THAN THE SLOT HEADED BOLTS ALSO THE SIDES.
To keep the gasket in place and guide the pan up into place I cut the heads of 1/4" bolts making them studs and thread them int o the block. To keep the gaskets in place I use grease as Permatex makes removal difficult if pan needs to be removed again.
The long side gaskets are stuck up in place first. Then the end corks are installed as their ends but up against the tabs on the side gaskets You can use a small amoumt of RTV (silicone) sealant at each corner joint.
If the new end corks are flat, tape them around a beer can first for a day or two to make them half round.
Be sure to remove and clean the oil pump screen. If your 1933 is he round type and rusted out I have new ones available.

excellent tips, thanks much

Great information, thanks.
Does all the above apply to my 35 std? I plan to change mine this winter.
Does it matter if I use my favorite beer can instead of yours?
Joe

Best to moisten the cork end gaskets before wrapping around the can. That helps to have the gasket take an arced shape.

In general it will apply to all 1929-1962 6 Cyl engines.

What ever you do do not stick the side gaskets on the block, stick them on the block first and then the end corks last.

K thank you Mr. Gene

If your going to be replacing the oil pan gasket, do not attempt to use an original as it will be shrunken with age.

I believe BEST GASKET and the filling station have brand new ones .

mike

I have often found with real cork gaskets that have shrunk, soak in warm water for a few minutes brings them back to size. The cork shrinks (and often becomes brittle) due to dehydration therefore a short soaking rehydrates and softens it. This trick doesnt always work with the modern mixed compound or synthetic cork.
Tony

I have used a lot of the old pure cork gaskets. I would soak them for 1/2 hours prior to installing them and then they worked OK.
The modern gaskets are much harder material than cork and may require retighting two or three times.Also the end corks tends to run oversized and can be too long or too thick.

I have done the same thing and the old cork gaskets work fine after soaking.

I have used old cork gaskets on several occasions by rehydrating with warm water. Also have used a little glycerine in the water which works a little better but takes longer to soak them. As long as they are not cracked the old cork can be better than modern replacements.

I would add soap to the water.

I have to watch my cork expand to correct size. If I do not they will expand to big. Both 1936's were done per above. Works great they have no leaks.

I removed all the screws two half inch bolts in the rear of the pan and three forward facing half inch bolts in the front of the pan. There are two large bolts facing up at the front of the pan. What are they supporting? I just want to know I have all screws and bolts out before I try prying the pan loose. This is one of the more difficult pans I have had to remove.

The two large bolts hold the front main bearing cap to the block....do not remove.
The pan may be stuck to the block because the previous person used a gasket sealant.

Great thanks. The engine was assembled several years before I bought the car in 2005. Guess the previous owner might have sealed it or it's just stuck on there good after so many years. Tight squeeze to get my hands up there, so it is definitely not wise to use a gasket sealant.

Came off easily prying gently on a front corner. The previous owner sealed the gasket to the pan not to the engine, thankfully.

Thanks for all the helpful hints and tips

I do have the round oil pump screen with a plate under it held by a wire rod type retainer that runs into holes on either side of the oil pump housing. Not sure how to remove that retainer without damaging anything. Any suggestions

There is a slotted hole on one side of the tin housing. Get a good light to see. Pass the rod out thru th slot provided.

Thanks. Tough to see lying on my back, but I got it now that I know what I am looking for. Thanks a lot as always.