Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#393272 08/04/17 10:22 PM
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Grease Monkey
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G'Day Everyone,
I'm new here and I have a 1933 Australian Built RHD Roadster with a 34 194 motor, it's easy to just swap in a 235 but I'm looking to tweak the motor using period parts so that the car looks like it was modified back in the day. I have a lot of info on the maintenance of these motors but

I would be interested in any advice that anyone has on alternative oil pumps, bearing insert conversion experience, better distributors, manifold splitting, twin/triple carbs, clutches etc.

This forum looks like THE place to be for pre 34 Chevys ;-)

Chucky

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If the 1934 engine is from a Master it is a 207. I would not recommend hopping it up because in stock form it was alsready pushed to the limit and speed parts were never made for it.
Just for better durability you can use lighter aluminum pistons and a replacemet gear type oil pump. Inserts rods bearings if you can find them.
A 1935 and 1936 engine a is slightly better because of an improvement in connecting rod oiling.


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The 194 engine was used from 1929 thru 1932.

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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Hot up gear for any 3 bearing crankshaft engine is a total waste of time. All that it will do is get you to 50mph slightly faster and then the 4.11 ratio diff will let you know it is there. The only way to get a bit more speed is to fit a higher ratio rear end. I have a 3.73 ratio in my 1935 standard. It is not a simple modification but it certainly improves the ability to drive the car a bit faster.

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Ahhhh, I didn't realise it was already stretched. I have the opportunity to look at a '57 235 tomorrow for $500, I may go look at it now.

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Even with a 235 installed, as 345chevy mentioned above, to gain more speed you will still need to go to a higher rear end.

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It's not about speed. It's about preserving an 83 year old motor from trying to cruise at today's speed limits. Reducing the rpm's is everything. Taller tires help a little. Swapping out the rear is a very big job, even with a well equipped shop. There are no bolt in gear changes available. A 4 speed tranny does not help because the gearing in 4th is similar to 3rd in a 3 speed. The Ford guys install an overdrive between the tranny and rear on the A's and T's.
A spare stock exhaust can be split if you can weld with larger one bbl carb or smaller duals help the engine breathe adding a little HP.
I can email you some pics of things I've done to reduce rpm's with spare parts on my 35 207 engine.

Last edited by wisebri; 08/05/17 11:20 AM.
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Increasing horse power or putting a larger engine in wont make that much difference in the cruising speed but you may get to cruising speed slightly quicker. You need to change the final gear ratio, installing a overdrive gear (several ways of doing), changing rear axle ratio or a combination of both. Increasing rear wheel rolling diameter will help but not by that large an amount.
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A later (1954 and up) 235 engine will cruise comfortably at 65 MPH and do over 85 MPH with your present 4.11 axle ratio. A 1934 engine will become stresed over 55 MPH and will be all day getting up to 75 MPH....and throw a rod if you go more than a mile at that speed.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 08/06/17 02:14 PM.

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one of the better books or manual for a lot of insight into hot rodding or modifying the chevrolet 6 cyl motor is califonia bill,s chevrolet speed manual how to hotrod your chevrolet. the manual I have is the 1948 edition which covers the 1941 6 cyl engine, but there are later editions to be found on ebay or other places on the internet. this gives information for things like setting up cyl. heads, lower end lubrication,camshafts,split manifolds,carbs,flywheels,gear ratios,speed equipment, and much more, it is well illustrated and shows a 41 coupe with a 216 engine that supposedly turns in the neighborhood of 6000 rpms. with a top speed of 110 mph. if nothing else if is a good read, with a lot of good info.and not too technical.

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Originally Posted by ChuckyDownUnder
G'Day Everyone,
I'm new here and I have a 1933 Australian Built RHD Roadster with a 34 194 motor, it's easy to just swap in a 235 but I'm looking to tweak the motor using period parts so that the car looks like it was modified back in the day. I have a lot of info on the maintenance of these motors but

I would be interested in any advice that anyone has on alternative oil pumps, bearing insert conversion experience, better distributors, manifold splitting, twin/triple carbs, clutches etc.

This forum looks like THE place to be for pre 34 Chevys ;-)

Chucky

CHUCKIE...........IS THE ROADSTER A STANDARD SERIES OR THE MASTER SERIES. ONLY AUSTRALIA MADE THE STANDARD SERIES, OR AS YOU DOWN UNDER CALL IT THE MERCURY

MIKE

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Wisebri,
my email is chuckydownunder@yahoo.co.uk (even though I'm in australia) any photos and help is always apprieciated mate :-)

Chucky

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DLZ,
Thanks for pointing me in the direction of the book. I'll go hunt a copy down.

Chucky.

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I think it is a standard series with a few master parts. I'll try and get a photo up soon.

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This should be a link to a photo of my car on facebook

[img]https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.ne...b796cea23bdda56c51833ef4&oe=5A3136C4[/img]

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very neat Chuckie and also very rare. North American built roadsters were only available as masters. The hood is the same style as USA.

I noticed that you have the same hidden door hinges as on the north American stamped roadsters and phaetons.

Joe Iaccino in USA and on this site, reproduced the 1933 only std series running board rubber . If you see him post on something, get in touch with him about purchasing a pair. He is the sole source of these.

mike lynch........... hood

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Hi Mike,
I'm lucky enough to have a LOT of spares to, I think I have about 6 sets of hinges. The original owner sold me all of his parts along with the car. I found a fully reconditioned engine and box this morning too, so I'll be going to look at it on Monday.

we had the local vintage chevy club swap this morning and I got to speak to a lot of people about engine mods, seems like twin 97 stombergs or W1's work well. The two interesting modifications were the addition of an oil filter, and a water bypass from the rear of the head to the top of the radiator.

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Originally Posted by ChuckyDownUnder
Wisebri,
my email is chuckydownunder@yahoo.co.uk (even though I'm in australia) any photos and help is always apprieciated mate :-)

Chucky

I cannot get your email to send. I have lots of fun stuff in my photo album derived from a warped mind.


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