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Joined: Jul 2017
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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The '32 Chevy Confederate has been my dream car for some time so when a Deluxe Sedan came up for sale that I could buy for less money than a good paint job would cost I had to make the move.
The rust free car body was professionally redone around 1995 and believe the only time the car spent a night outdoors was while it is on the trailer being delivered to me.
However the car came with a caveat: a stuck engine on a car showing 10,079 miles on the odometer.
I have an undying love for straight 6's so I pulled the plug as this was the only way I'd ever own one.
Long story short we got the engine free quite easily but found it has been bored .030" and fitted with aluminum pistons...... :doh:
Yesterday the head went to a local shop to be tanked, fluxed and find out what needs to be done, only to find out it has a '33 head.
So now we're REALLY wondering what's what.
The stamped number on the engine block is 3068503.
I haven't been able to find out much but it SEEMS that might be a '33 engine?
I can't imagine what could have happened to the original engine so we're all ears for information.
THANKS!
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Joined: Nov 2001
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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1932 engine serial numbers were between 2951553 and 3367316. So that would put the engine in your '32 about production. The block should have a casting number in six raised numbers. Also a casting date with letter then a number or two and a final number. That can solidify that the block is a 1932. A '33 head will fit but requires longer push rods.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Jul 2017
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
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Thanks Chipper! I'm happy to hear that at least. Whoever did whatever apparently knew that because the seller drove it 16 miles to his home from the body shop some time after it was done and he said it ran perfectly........and then it sat, and sat and sat. The cause of it getting stuck was a head gasket leak between cylinders 4 and 5. Everything looks perfect with shiny cylinder walls and the connecting rod bearings don't even show signs of burnishing. So the 1933 head was another unexpected development.......  Here is what the seller told me only hours ago: I’m as surprised as you are at this. I knew a friend of the widow that sold the car to me and the stories of how he used it were consistent with little or no miles. Perhaps it got messed up previously from not being used enough and someone decided to “go through it”. Unfortunately, we’ll never know why but it is obvious someone did the work.
Last edited by CraigA; 08/01/17 11:13 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 197
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 197 |
I went to look at the engine again. The casting numbers appear in this order: 836573 A52 1 By the way.......this is the car. The photo does not do it justice. GoogleDriveConfederate
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Joined: Nov 2015
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2015
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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836573 = 1932 Chevrolet engine block casting number. A52 = Casting date: The engine block was cast on January 5, 1932.   
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Nov 2002
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ChatMaster - 7,000
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ChatMaster - 7,000
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The car looks great. I really like the color combo with the red wheels-but I do admit to being biased.
Steve D
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Joined: Jul 2017
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thank you very much!.......  I found and started following this forum as soon as I knew I was going to own this car. Already I know I chose the right place to be....... 
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Joined: Jul 2017
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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JUST IN........Are the intake and exhaust springs the same and where can I get a couple?
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Joined: Nov 2002
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ChatMaster - 7,000
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ChatMaster - 7,000
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They are the same. Pt # 364912 They are available from TFS but I believe in sets of 12. Might be a good idea to change all, but if you only want a couple chances are some members may have a couple. They also may be available from www.marxparts.com They are in Wisconsin .
Last edited by m006840; 08/02/17 05:43 PM.
Steve D
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Joined: Oct 2007
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
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Joined: Jul 2017
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks again......got 'em from Kanter.
I ordered 6 for the exhausts.
They can pick the best of the old ones for the intakes.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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ChatMaster - 7,000
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ChatMaster - 7,000
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A note of caution when you are asking questions regarding your engine just remind us that it has the 33 head as some parts are different. The springs fortunately are the same for 29-33. You might want to check out the websites for both the Filling Station and Marx Parts as they both are excellent vendors who support and visit the Chatter website.
Steve D
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 197
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 197 |
I have already used both of the above......GREAT vendors by the way....... 
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 197
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 197 |
I am very lucky to have Marx Parts only about 70 miles away so I get my parts from him over night.......  While ordering things I had totally forgot a pan gasket set which arrived this morning. It wasn't the easiest thing in the world to put on with the engine in the car but we did it and it's leak free.......  Starting an engine that last ran in 1996 wasn't trouble free but after correcting a couple minor annoyances the engine fired right up and showed 30 lbs. on the oil pressure gauge right after it started. It dropped off to 8 pounds at a slow idle when hot using 10W30 oil so I think that's more than adequate.......at least I'm happy about it. I didn't drive it yet as we let it idle for about an hour to let things settle in. I'm a pretty happy camper this evening. A TIRED happy camper.......  There are some minor things to wrap up tomorrow and then it's fun time.
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 197
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 197 |
On my short list is a new coil.
Not knowing the age of the one on it now I don't want to find out the hard way.
I cannot find, anywhere, which type of coil to use.
A Plain Jane coil or one with a built in resistor?
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Use the one with the built in resistor. Use a condenser for a 1954 car engine.  
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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The www.fillingstation.com sells 6 volt coils for $35. Part number FS-769 . The coils with internal resistor are for 12 volt use, and reduce the coil voltage to about 9 volts, as compared to a 12 volt coil.
JACK
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Joined: Nov 2001
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 197
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
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It's ALWAYS something!........  I'm taking the car to an event tomorrow which will be it's first, real, public debut >>> https://www.faithandnewhope.com/what-s-going-on/I was going to find out what's wrong with the non-existent e brake. I figured MAYBE some adjustment but noooooooo. Some genius, NOT the seller, forgot to engage the left side e brake shaft into the differential case........ I thought MAYBE there's some wiggle room to get it in there but NOPE. GREAT........now I get to remove the wheel hub and whatever else I need to do to gain the 3/4" I need to do to engage the shaft....... 
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Joined: Apr 2006
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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Bummer!
Although I don't have a '32, I suspect the e-brake setup is roughly the same as my '27 and '28. If that's the case, opening up things so you can slide that rod into the differential shouldn't be too bad.
On my e-brake rods, there's a clamp on the rod that sits against the brake back plate. This clamp keeps the rod in the hole on the differential. If your clamp is not missing, you'll need to loosen it so the rod can slide back and forth.
Hang in there!
Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thanks Dean. They must be the same or very similar. I loosened that clamp which accomplishing nothing except shining up the threads on the screw........ Things could be worse.......it could have been someone else's car........ At least this car isn't a rust bucket. Everything has come apart easily unlike some other things (a LOT) I've worked on....... 
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Joined: Nov 2001
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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If I remember (last time I worked on '32 e-brake was 30+ years ago) correctly the clamp is also a sleeve that slides over the connection between the rod and shaft in the backing plate. If you slide (probably will need some persuasion) the clamp toward the center the tab on the shaft should slide out of the slot thereby freeing the rod.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 197
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 197 |
Chipper, I had that clamp loosened and turning freely on the rod. I don't think I got a thousandth movement on the darn thing. There is a sort of washer flange on the part the gets clamped. It shoulders against the brake backing plate, presumably, to hold the shaft in the differential boss. Maybe it is a stuck sleeve. Sure seems odd I got ZERO movement. While I'm at it is there some secret chant I need to perform to get a cowl light bezel off?....... besides that one? >>>
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........OMG this thing is sweet!