VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 1927 Truck Running Hot and Labored

1927 engine, 4 cyl running hot and labored. Engine has been rebuilt.
Can't get distributor to match cam timing. Overheats quickly and blows water out.

Guessing?
Timing gears not aligned on reassembly?
Bearings too tight?
Cracked head?
Hoping none of the above are true.

Hello,

i have the same problem. you found the error?

Does the 27 car and truck have same motor?

Hi
My 23 four cylinder had just these symptoms.
I had to re core the rad as it was a mess- this helped but didn't totally cure the problem.
The timing was a bit out and the sluggish running, overheating and blowing water out was cured by re setting the timing. My engine was simply running too far retarded, the car was transformed by adjusting. It's also very fussy about running retarded, which really affects the performance- but doesn't like totally fully advanced!
Before you go further, make sure the advance/ retard lever is adjusted fully advanced for general running, and experiment with small adjustments of the lever for idling/running.
Steve

Agree. My '25 is almost as slow as a ford if it does not get adequate advance. The fact that your motor is labouring tells me for sure that you are not getting enough advance. Radiator issues may exist but will not make an engine labour.
Assuming the cam timing is correct, I would set your hand control to full advance (engine will be still labouring) and then turn the whole distributor until you hear the engine speed up. Keep turning it until you hear the engine run roughly or start knocking. Back off from this position until it runs smoothly and willingly again and lock the distributor in this position. That then is your full advance position and your hand lever will now be set at this also, and you can be confident to flick it through to full advance knowing it will not be too much.(essential for traffic light drags!) I run my car at this position all the time, backing off only for idle and starting. Chevs do seem very sensitive to ignition setting and certainly like correct maximum advance to get peak performance.
Should overheating still occur then you have radiator issues, or blocked passages in the block. I think it more likely you have a partially blocked core which whilst still allowing good flow will not cool because there are simply not enough tubes operating. Original radiators rarely work well and are very hard to find in usable condition. Harrison cores are virtually non-repairable anyway (yes, the start of the throw away era)because of the zig-zag tubes through which you cannot pass anything to unblock them. Also 90 year old solder has often deteriorated and work hardened making any attempt at repairs futile. Thus I would not waste time and money trying to salvage one. Others may disagree.