Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
1st post… New to this OLD car world. I’m not much of a mechanic so if I sound like I don’t know what I’m talking about…you’re right. I bought a 1936 Chevrolet Master Deluxe several months ago. The engine was stuck…I tried all of the elixirs but nothing worked. Took the motor out and apart. Head off and pan. Disconnected the rod caps and tried to pound out the pistons. Only 1 moved…not that rusty so I assume she overheated and froze up. Decided to see other options. Found a motor in Las Vegas that looked like the match. Block casting was the same (close anyway) mine is 836010-11 and the Vegas is 836010-10. Here is the bad part. The Vegas motor came yesterday and it has a smaller transmission and the bell housing is not the same. This makes the distance 1 to2 inches short of matching up to the driveline. I have not removed either yet. The bell housing on that motor requires the ability to turn the motor over to get at the clutch removal since there are two bolts inside to remove the housing. That also is going to prevent me from getting the bell housing and clutch off of the original motor. Here is my main question. Will the old transmission, which is bigger fit up to the end of the crankshaft? In other words, did they make two different cranks for the Master Deluxe vs the Standard. The second question, What is the best way to try and get the original bell housing off? Any tricks to get at the spring bolts without turning the crank over? Thanks in advance, tMBF

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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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The larger Master trqansmission has a syncronized 2nd and 3rd gears. The cheaper, lighter Standard is not syncronized. The U joint is completely diferent and the /Standard is shorter as you discovered.
The flywheels are the same and the housings very different.
The two engines are exactly the same including the crankshafts.

I can give you no help in removing the flywheel but I am sure some one else here will have the answer. wel2

Last edited by Chev Nut; 04/12/17 04:29 PM.

Gene Schneider
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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I WOULD LIKE TO ADD THAT i WOULD STRONGLY RECOMMEND REMOVING THE OIL PAN AND CLEANING THE OIL PICK-UP SCREEN WHILE THE ENGINE IS OUT.


Gene Schneider
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Thanks! I have a 1935-36 service manual and the shaft looked different on the end in the drawing. I was wondering if the bushing in the crankshaft was different. Didn't know if the bushing size in the crank was also different thus maybe having a size problem of interchangeability. Hope that if it does take the same outside size diameter, I will be able to pull the old one out and put it in the new motor . unless they have new replacement bushings...?

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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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The 1931-1939 models all used the same crank shaft pilot bearing EXCEPT for the 1833 and 1934 Standards. The bearing is a roller bearing and is available from www,fillingstation.com....Their part number is FS-395 and is $19.50. The correct bearing is a roller bearing and I would not recommend removing an old one and reusing it.


Gene Schneider
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Great! Now all I need to do is figure a way of getting the original bell housing off...with out using a torch and a sledge hammer..

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ChatMaster - 6,000
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ChatMaster - 6,000
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The gearbox should unbolt and come off the bellhousing easily without turning the crankshaft, sometimes the front of the gearbox shaft will stick into the pilot bearing but a generally not hard to separate.
With the gearbox off the clutch fork and bearing will juggle out allowing you restricted access to the pressure plate bolts and the clutch will then fall out of the housing and then access to the flywheel bolts.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire

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