Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 209
Rich47 Offline OP
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 209

Trying to figure out why my heater or A/C blower motor does not blow air when placed in the hi position. I have always assumed that it would be the relay on the heat / a/c box. Bought a new one and still no air on hi. I took the resistor out and inspected it and looked ok but not sure what I am looking for. Any ideas or help is appreciated. Also has anyone had to replace the plastic bumper extensions on either the front or rear bumpers. My front one is gone and will order from Impala Bob's. Thanks again.

Wilwood Engineering1955-1957

Willwood Engineering

Wilwood Engineering designs and manufactures high-performance disc brake systems.
Wilwood Engineering, Inc. - 4700 Calle Bolero - Camarillo, CA 93012 - (805) 388-1188


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Be a good idea to have a look at a wiring diagram for your car.
Usually the high speed bypasses the resistor board and has it's own circuit so a schematic would be nice to see where it goes.

GM's in the 70's seem to melt connectors if the blower motor was tired so pull apart any related connectors and have a look for any deformation.


1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
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ChatMaster - 750
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Check the connector by the right valve cover, the heavy red wire is the one that will be burnt. Bypassed many connectors over the years to fix high fan.


Dens Chevys 1927 Speedster 1928 coupe 1941street rod 1947Fleetline 4 door 1949 1/2 ton Pickup (sold) 1954 210 4 door 1972 Monte Carlo 2003 Corvette convt..
Joined: Feb 2012
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Rich47 Offline OP
Backyard Mechanic
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Joined: Feb 2012
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Finally figured out the problem with the blower motor not working on hi. We traced all the wires for power and etc and disconnected the inline fuse for the blower hi speed fan wire {orange} and made a jumper and got it to work. Thought maybe the fuse wire ends were corroded a bit and cleaned them put it back together and it would not work again. Took the fuse apart again and looked at the fuse and looked ok but I decided to just put a new fuse in anyway and low and behold it works. So I took my meter and checked old fuse for continuity and it was good according to the meter. I cannot understand that one.

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Awesome.

I've seen glass fuses where the flat conductor inside has physically broken away from the end cap from vibration, build quality, etc.

The result is a fuse that looks ok to the eye, and SOMETIMES still has a connection intermittently. The weak connection that passes the meter test may not allow enough current flow for real life operation...


1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 209
Rich47 Offline OP
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 209
yes you are correct on that. I spoke with a old friend of mine whom does electronics and he said the same thing and showed me some he had that did the exact same thing. I spent a fair amount of time trouble shooting several car troubles last week and can see why shops charge so much for that work. I do not like electrical work whether car, house, industrial or whatever. Just do not have that interest in it.


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