Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#38629 10/21/03 08:19 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8
hello, i am looking for help with my 55 chevy 210. i hope im in the right room since it is a custom not a stocker. i have a 1981 pontiac t-am rear with factory disc brakes. same in the front. of course power and an LT-1 350. my problem is i have no real braking power. i push the pedal and it travels 5"(or so) before the brakes apply, then it dosent stop(it feels like very poor manual brakes). i have been a mechanic for about 10 years and this has me very stumped. i have replaced the master/p-valve/all four calipers/pads and turned rotors/and lines.most not for above reason i.e. lines pads rotors etc... but still. i have adjusted the travel rod to 1/8" from the (also new) booster. and checked the vacuum supply and check valve. also all parts are for a 81 pontiac to assure compatability. the car is allmost perfect in all other aspects. PLEASE help any answers or comments would be a great deal of help. thank you

Wilwood Engineering1955-1957

Willwood Engineering

Wilwood Engineering designs and manufactures high-performance disc brake systems.
Wilwood Engineering, Inc. - 4700 Calle Bolero - Camarillo, CA 93012 - (805) 388-1188


#38630 10/21/03 08:28 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
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Technical Advisor
ChatMaster - 10,000
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ChatMaster - 10,000
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You may have better luck on another channel. We are the experts on the mechanical and early juice type.

Agrin


RAY


Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



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#38631 10/22/03 12:18 AM
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I would suspect the master cylinder first. Are you sure that there is no leakage of fluid back to the reservoir? As I am sure you are aware, some power brake systems are very difficult to remove all the air. Did you try bleading with the engine off. Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak in the booster? or the wrong booster? I assume the 1/8" is the proper adjustment for the rod but if the wrong booster or it was assembled incorrectly it could not be right. It ain't rocket science but at times brake (especially power) systems can eat your lunch. What happens if you disconnect the vacuum line and plug it? I know the brake pedal will be hard to push but is it spongy or solid?


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
#38632 10/22/03 08:55 AM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8
thank you for replying, as far as bleeding the brakes i gravity bleed for about 5 min. then power bled. all with the engine off. if i plug the vacuum the brakes act the same way but with no assist. swings in about 5" before it starts to applyand only have about 2" of working pedal. i dont have a vacuum leak at the booster or the check valve, after engine has been off (about half an hour) and unplug the check valve from the booster it inhales. i appreciate the help and if i am in the wrong place could you suggest another place for help?? thank you

#38633 10/22/03 09:06 AM
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Are all of the brake components original (same type) to the car, from pedal to the wheels? :confused:

If it is, drop down to the "Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc
Engine, Transmission, Drive Train, Brakes, etc." category and make a new entry there and just describe your '55 brake problem.

croc

#38634 11/01/03 10:38 AM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 19
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Posts: 19
Look at those rear calipers. If there are not adj. where you have them just touching.Slight drag Or they is play/loose. YOU WILL HAVE A LOW PEDAL.It will be firm at the bottom.It will not pump up. you won't find air. Very common with GM rear disc's hope this helps.


55.1 First series pickup

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