Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#386052 03/21/17 07:25 AM
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JT1969 Offline OP
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hi guys....can I use a chev small block 185 or 195 degree thermostat in my 194 engine?...the Filling Station looks to have that type of thermostat for a replacement but I wanted to get a confirmation on this from you experts....also..for the upper part of the housing...what type of gasket should I use?...I don't see a replacement for the upper part of the housing..i just see a gasket for the lower housing to cylinder head in the FS catalog...i'll have to make one..which is no big deal....thanx a bunch...Cheers!

Jim
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Yes the small block thermostat can be used with the stock outlet housing. Some heads have a depression that the thermostat will fit into. Otherwise you may need a thick or two gaskets.

I would not use any thermostat above 180 deg. I personally don't use any thermostats in my 194 cu. in. Chevys and don't recommend them.


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The 1931 Chevrolet came without a thermostat and, like Chipper, I also recommend that if you have to use one that you put in the coldest thermostat that you can find. I believe that the original "stats" were around 140 degrees. I don't use a thermostat in my 1932 and I also don't recommend them.

Originally, when a "stat" was used Chevrolet offered a special thick metal spacer for the thermostat that was installed between the cylinder head and the "goose neck". The metal spacer had a depression for the thermostat.

If the accessory Genuine Chevrolet Hot Water Heater was installed then it required a special two-piece (upper and lower) thermostat housing. The two-piece housing replaced the stock "goose neck" when it was installed on the cylinder head for the hot water heater. The two-piece housing had a by-pass valve and also a depression for a thermostat that was to be used with the hot water heater.

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is this the thermostat housing you guys are talking about ??

1929 Thermostat Housing 1
1929 Thermostat Housing 2

if so i can get more picts tonight, since i have it torn apart and reassembling the engine at this time.


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Just wanted to double check on this discussion regarding thermostats and no real need for them.
That being said is it still advisable to install a thin brass plate (or shim between the gooseneck and the head with a 1/2 hole in to to slow down the waterflow to aid in cooling?
Wanted to check.
Thanks!!!!
John


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Yep......that is the metal spacer for the standard thermostat that was used in 1929 through 1932.

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I don't use a thermostat or a brass plate on my 1932 and it runs really cool....even with the original honeycomb radiator.

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also had people state that IF you run a thermostat that you should drill a 1/8" hole in it for a bypass ??

previous discussion about this: 1929 Operating Temperature & Thermostat ??


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If you install a brass plate with 1/2" hole it will severely reduce the flow through the radiator. That will NOT aid in cooling unless there is a massive amount of air drawn into the cooling system.


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I have a 160 thermostat in my car as I run a heater and my wife has a cold condition so having the heat is a must for any sort of driving in the spring or fall. Even in the summer my car does run cool. It comes up to heat and virtually stays there until shut down where it will climb a little while sitting there. I have a thermostat housing with the heater bypass pipe in it. Mine was a new made brass casting with a curved pipe threaded into it. My motor was rebuilt, boiled out, new plate behind the pump, new style ball bearing pump, and I have the 32' 4 blade (two tapered,two straight), dealer changed fan. My radiator is the original honey comb also.

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wow Chipper I may have been really off base on the use of the brass plate to restrict the water flow....that could have contributed to overheating I have experienced. So maybe I should remove the plate and have unrestricted water flow to see if the car runs cooler.
John


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There is a common misconception that coolant can flow through the radiator too fast. That is pure bunk!! The loss of coolant and foaming is mostly due to air being drawn into the cooling system and then the bubbles growing larger due to heat. Putting a restrictor plate in place reduces the flow and increases the pressure between the pump and plate. That reduces the size of the bubbles causing people to think that it is doing something positive and the bogus theory. In fact it reduces the flow through the radiator which can substantially reduce the total heat transfer from the engine.


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JT1969 Offline OP
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Hi guys...the numbers and letters stamped on the stat that was in my housing are as follows....HRC...11..33...160....thanx again

Jim
'31 Cabriolet


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