VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Hard to start the engine after a few days. -34

Hi.

When my 34 Master has been standing for a few days, I have to crank it a long time (15+ seconds?) to get it started.
Then it starts right up and runs fine.

I have a fealing the engine is difficult to start because of lack of fuel (I have to crank it for a long time to get fuel).

I have been told there are valves in the fuel pump that are there to prevent the fuel from flowing back from the fuel pipe going to the carb. If theese valves are not doing there job, I have to crank for a long time to get the engine started.
My car had not been started for a few weeks today (I knew it would be hard to start it if I tried), so I loosened the fuel pipe on the pressure side of the fuel pump to see if there still was fuel in the pipe going to the carb. And there was, quite a bit of fuel was comming out, so I guess my "hard to start problem" is not caused by faulty fuel pump valves then. If the fuel pump valves were not doing there job, there should not be fuel in the pipe going to the carb, right?

What other things can be the cause of my problem?

I have a carter carb with the two hole bowl cover. I know this bowl cover is not air tight. Could it be that the fuel in the carb evaporates because it is not air tight, so my carb is dry after a few days?

Let me know if you have any thoughts or suggestions.

Thanks!

the fuel in the carb should not be draining back out of the fuel bowl. There should be fuel in the line going from the fuel pump too the carb.

take air cleaner off and looking into the carb, pull on the gas pedal rod and watch to see if fuel is spraying into the carb.
If it is then that's correct.

When you want to start the car, pump the gas pedal 2 times to the floor, then turn key or step on the starter button to start it.

If it doesn't start within a few turns ....6 ?? then check plugs to see if clean. Also check the timing to see if its set to factory specks.

mike

My two old chevys are the same. Just give the carb. a shot of starter fluid if they set for more than 5 days.

Normal due to today gas, ethanol or not it just evaporates fast. There is no way gas can drain out of the carburetor.
My staring method is give the gas pedal one pump (in case there is a bit of gas in the carb.)Pull the choke all the way out and crank it over till it starts.

Check this link:

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Hardstartcold

Jon.

I find that spraying starting fluid will help you to a better start. I try to think like the old timers when starting. Do not grind the starter! All it takes is a short crank, just long enough to go through a compression stroke. It will give you more attempted starts, start faster, and save your battery. Remember hand crank is provided and was used in the "olden days". If the battery did not work. We lived on the farm and hand cranking was used. We depended on getting it to the compression stroke and then pulling it to start. Modern cars start faster and have spoiled us. If they do not start; I hang on the starter until it does. Not so in 1934. Part of living in the past is "doing" it.

I use WD-40 if needed. It burns well and does not remove any oil from the cylinder walls.

Thanks for all replies!

Yes the fuel evaporates from the Carb bowl within a few days and makes it hard to start the engine.

I have owned my 1933 Master coupe for over 45 years and it has always taken quite a few cranks to get it started after sitting a few days.

Like others have said, I just give it a few shots of starting fluid into the air cleaner openings, if you really want to call those originals cleaners. I guess they remove the big chunks if you were on a really dusty/dirty road.

Ethanol gas may cause the fuel to evaporate faster, but I have never used gas with ethanol in my 1933 Chevrolet.

Mine does that too. I also thought it drained back out but now I know. Is that starting fluid available at most parts store?

Starting fluid (ether) is available in the auotmotive department is any store.

Canadian tire has it.

mike

The only way for it to drain out is turn the car up-side-down.

Drain out under normal circumstances is impossible as Gene says, there are 2 possibilities that I see (1) the fuel evaporates while the engine is cooling down after the last run or (2) the fuel perculates in the bowl after the last shut down and floods a couple of cylinders.
Tony

The only problem with that theory is that the engine will start easily even after a day or two of sitting. If you then start the engine (when cold) and run it for a minute or so to completely fill the bowl and before the engine gets hot and then switch off you will still have the same problem if you then let it sit for four or five days. The diecast bowl covers do warp on the pre 1936 carbs which may allow some evaporation but I have always had this problem even after fitting straight ones.

legislation has been introduced in USA bill HR-1315 to stop the blending of 15% ethanol into gasoline.

mike

Mike if I am reading correctly you are saying that E10 is the worst you will get in the USA.
The only better statement would be to limit it to E0.
Tony

I go to my local gas terminal and buy old regular gas to run in my two 1936's. Both have no trouble starting after a few days but if you go a week then it does take more than several cranks to start. The gas has to nebulize (get the right air to vapor mix before ignition)just right before she will fire.

THATS THE PROPOSAL IN THE BILL = 0000 percent added ethanol.
mike

Now to get the tree huggers to accept the same down here.
Tony