VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1940 Chevy axle

Does anybody have a strait axle for a 40 Chevy or has anybody sucessfully rebuilt the kingpin area? The kingpins are loose and I am told that it is a problem to insert bushings.

Thanks,

Mike

The bushing for the model are free to turn on the king pin AND in the axle. They drop in place and do not require reaming. Have you removed the king pins and bushing?

Thanks, but this is a strait axle. The kingpin in the axle is held in place by a locking pin so I don't see how it can turn.

Mike

The lock pin only hold the king pin in place, it has nothing to do with the bushings.

You need to remove the king pin and measure the pin, the axle hole as well as the bushings to see were the slop is.
If the hole is were the slop is then the hole would need reamed and an oversize king pin would be required.
Have done this job years ago and you could get oversize pin kits with the proper bushings for the year you required.

The way I see it is the locking pin holds the kingpin in place so it does not rotate so no bushings are needed. My problem is that someone failed to secure the locking pin and the kingpin wore into the hole on the axle over time. I'm new to this car so I could be wrong. So I guess I need to know if I need to find a new axle or have it reamed out and bushed or find a good axle.

Your help is appreciated,

Mike

I have a set of new kingpins. What would be the advantage to reaming and using oversized kingpins and just reaming and bushing it back to original. It doesn't move?

Mike

The wearing area that the bushings ride on are in the knuckel and not the axle. I would would suggest remove the king pin and knuckle and see if the new king pin is loose in the axle.
The front axle fits 1937-1940 cars with leaf front springs.

Rabaut

If I understand you correctly, because the locking bolt was not installed, the king pin wore the axle hole excessively. I would first loosely assemble the new king pin w/bushings (don't put in the end caps or snap rings) and with the king pin locking bolt tightened.If the locking bolt holds the king pin tight and the wheel will turn (steer) freely(disconnect the tie rod on that side) you should be good to go. However, if the axle hole is worn to the point that the locking bolt won't hold the king pin tight I suggest reaming and bushing the king pin hole in the axle and use a STD pin and bushings.

If your king pin set is standard then bushing the eye of the axle might be the easiest-as long as the bushings fit correctly in the knuckle. If it has also worn in the knuckle area then an oversize set could cure both items. I would suggest trying a shop that does truck axles as they should have experience with solid beam axles.

I have a 39 master deluxe but the kingpin setup is the same style. I had a worn kingpin holder which I had resleeved with steel. Totally sucessful and I use standard kingpins still 40 years later.

I have some experience with this one, on my truck. I had new kingpins, standard size and they were a little bit loose in the axle bore. I put it together and relied on the locking bolt wedge action to tighten it up. It loosened up very quickly and subsequent tightening did not help either. I had the axle repaired with hardened steel bushings and everything is fine now with standard kingpins.

Thanks guys. I'll check again with a local machine shop to see what the cost is to put bushings in the axle. I was told before it would be about $250 per side. I was hoping to find a good used axle.

Thanks,

Mike

It has been brought to my attention that I may not have the correct axle for my car. Bummer.... does anybody have or can take detail pictures of a 1940 strait axle for me?

I would appreciate.

Thanks,

Mike

What makes you think it isn't the correct axle?

The correct axle will have the 3652409 or 3652405 forging number. Usually is found in the recessed part of the beam.

We are trying to figure out the use of the boss and horizontal hole. Here (I hope) is a Dropbox image.

Dropbox image

Axle picture

If you are refering to the front to rear hole half way up the diagonal part, it is for mounting the lower end of the direct acting tube type shock used on 1939 and 1940 models.
This idicates you have the correct axle.
Did yo find the forging number on it?

Yes, the forging # 3652409 was found on the axle. Now I guess I just have to have it rebuilt. I found a local truck axle shop that can do it and align the car also.

Thanks for the help
Mike