VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Recommended Carburetor Cleaning Method

Hi everyone.

I'm looking at really dirty 1932 Carter W1 (model 212) on my work bench. All parts seem to be operating properly but it's filthy.

What's the consensus recommended method to clean? Good old carburetor aerosol spray can and as assortment of small brushes OR submerge the unit's part after some basic disassembly in a chemical bath (Berryman Chem-Dip, Gunk etc)....

For cast iron carburetors I always use a bead blaster to clean the bare carb. body. However, if a bead blaster is not available then submerging the carb. body in Berryman Chem-Dip is the way to go.

I also take the carburetors apart and bead blast the cast iron bodies. Never was satisfied in the results soaking those old carbs. Might be best with modern carbs but it is tough to get the long small passages clean even if you pull at the passage plugs. Besides that soak is expensive when you can only do a few carbs before it is no longer effective.

I'm a little hesitant to post after two very experienced rebuilders but I'll pass this on and perhaps you may find it interesting if not helpful. A friend that does some carb rebuilding uses a small hand held soda blaster to clean the passages on the aluminum bodied parts. It's finer than the glass beads and cleans out easily afterwards. It's also EPA friendly so no toxic waste to dispose of.

You should have noted that both Skip and I wrote about bead blasting the cast iron bodies. Soda or media blasting might work better on soft metals like aluminum but it can quickly plug the small passages in the early Carter carburetors. Even fine glass bead dust can do it. I have and am sure Skip has found that as well.

The soda is indeed not toxic in normal concentrations and conditions. However when used to remove materials from a surface can be hazardous (or toxic) when it gets mixed with metal or other crud.

Not necessarily....it all depends upon what grit of glass beads are used and also who manufactures the glass beads. The glass beads that I use is extremely fine. The media that I use will also work on aluminum and pot metal and it will not harm either.

I agree with Chipper.

I should mention that I only use 40-60 psig on my bead cabinet. That is plenty to clean off the crud, paint (except single stage urethane or epoxy) and light rusting from a carburetor body. It also reduces and erosion of soft metals. A rotary fine wire wheel can also be a benefit. Be careful as the wheel can throw parts around the shop if you don't know what you are doing or don't pay attention. The tough stuff gets sand and higher pressure in another cabinet.

Yes I did note the procedure for the cast iron bodies and I also do the same as I have a cabinet with the glass beads. I was curious as to the soda blasting as I think it "flushes" easier than glass beads. I do not do carbs myself as I think it's best to leave that for those that have the knowledge and tools.

All these posts are very informative but I don't have a bead blaster and chem bath although it seems I could that myself I am slightly concerned about plugging up passages. Seems it would be very easy to plug up a passage.

How do you folks avoid plugging up passages with chem baths? Should I consider punting to a shop that does bead/soda blasting?

Steve D I see your in Southern NH, I'm in Merrimack Valley northern Mass. you have a shop you use for carburetor cleaning?

Thanks everyone, love learning all this new stuff.

Although I have no experience in this area, why not use Kerosene and a small brass wire brush to clean the carb parts?

The online info about Kerosene seems to indicate that it is a good cleaning agent for mechanical parts.

Cheers, Dean

In thinking about this some more I'm going to use small brushes and a regular carburetor cleaner spray can. Then after removing some of the worst grime with this method I will submerge parts in Berry man Chem-Dip. Then air blast the passages as best as possible to free up any lodged material. And then repeat the entire process once or however many times more.

This is seems to be best and most logical approach for someone without any blasting (soda or glass) capabilities.

The deposits in carburetors are generally polymerized gasoline. That is gums and varnishes. It takes fairly strong low molecular weight solvents to loosen and/or dissolve those compounds. Kerosene is a mixture with too large molecules to be of much help. However it is fairly effective in oil or larger hydrocarbon molecules. When mixed with a little good surfactant (Dawn dishwashing detergent for example) it can be fairly effective. End of chemistry lesson.

I've used Hobbs Carb shop in Pelham N.H. over the years. I would not however recommend them for the 212s carb because I doubt they have the knowledge or parts for that vintage a carb. Your approach I think is good and if after your cleaning it does not work OK then I would send it to one of the VCCA recommended rebuilders.

I know the cost of a good one made in the USA is very high for the non-professional; but if one has access to a ultrasonic cleaner, it is the "cat's meow"!

While I no longer have time to rebuild (demand for our repair kits keeps me to busy); when I did rebuild, the ultrasonic was first, followed by the glass-beading with ultrafine beads and low pressure.

If glass-beading, boiling the cleaned cast iron casting in water is a good way to remove any stubborn beads (glass beading creates static electricity)!

After the water bath, compressed air through all passages BOTH directions; and with the W-1, EXPECT to remove the pump cross passage access plug and clean with a small orifice bit about 60 percent of the time.

And for those that use the various carburetor 2-layer soaking chemicals; I would highly suggest boiling the casting in soapy water followed by boiling in plain water following the 2-layer soak. Why? Because the 2-layer soak WILL leave a residue that will eventually cause another cleaning. Dawn dishwater soap works well for this.

Jon.