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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Drove my 33 around the block after it sat for several months and it overheated. The radiator was cleaned out by a radiator shop when I restored the car several years ago but noticed some rust in the water when it overflowed. I'll flush it again but any other idea's besides that?
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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My 34 truck block was full of crud that I cleaned out. But I think the biggest problem was some of the holes in the top of the block water jacket were almost closed from an accumulation of rust and whatever, maybe calcium from the water.
Happy Trails, 48155
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Drove my 33 around the block after it sat for several months and it overheated. The radiator was cleaned out by a radiator shop when I restored the car several years ago but noticed some rust in the water when it overflowed. I'll flush it again but any other idea's besides that? XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX IF YOU LOOK INTO THIS 1933-1936 SECTION AND EXPLORE IT, YOU WILL FIND ALL KINDS OF THREADS ON OVERHEATING JUST IN THE LAST YEAR ALONE, AND WHAT HAD TO BE DONE TO CORRECT THE PROBLEM. SENSELESS US GOING OVER THE SAME PROBLEM OVER AND OVER AGAIN. MIKE 
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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My 33 had the same issue, radiator looked good and flowed OK but about 1/3 of it was blocked from crude . I re cored it and it runs about 160-180 moving but it will go to 200 + sitting still on a hot day (95+) but after I start moving it cooles back down. The original radiator can not be rodded when they are plugged they are history. Dale
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ChatMaster - 1,500
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That sounds just like my 33 coupe, Radiator looked good but it would still over heat even after I had a radiator shop clean it. I bought a NORS radiator and have never had a problem with it over heating, even in parades!
Last edited by Uncle Ed; 11/11/16 12:41 AM.
Ed
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I had the same issue with my 33 Master 5 Window Coupe while sitting at stop lights and then it would go back to normal temperature when I would start moving again.
I had replaced the water pump, baffle, radiator reworked, etc., etc., and nothing helped. Adjusting the ignition timing helped some.
A few years ago I finally replaced the fan with a 1933-36 truck fan P/N 837448 that pushes significantly more air. Problem solved. This fan has longer blades, 16 1/4 vs 15 3/4 as I recall, but I believe the real benefit is from the blade width. Looks exactly like the original fan except slightly longer and wider blades.
It took 2 or so years to find the fan on the internet, and not through ebay.
Last edited by Vila; 01/25/17 01:42 PM.
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simple test for air flow. Put a CLOTH diaper type 2 x 2 ft in front of radiator at least 12" away. With engine running the fan should draw the cloth to the radiator. If it doesn't your going to overheat.!!!!!! If you can locate a 34-36 truck fan with longer blades and more pitch , do it. Besides rodding the core out to clean it, the fins must touch the tubes & be tight to them, in order to transfer the heat too the fins as the air passes over them . mike lynch.... 
Last edited by mike_lynch; 01/25/17 02:36 PM.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I was wrong on the dates for the P/N 837448 truck fan.
My 1929-1940 Chevrolet Part Manual states the fan was actually used on all 1932 - 1936 Trucks.
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I had the same issue with my 33 Master 5 Window Coupe while sitting at stop lights and then it would go back to normal temperature when I would start moving again.
I had replaced the water pump, baffle, radiator reworked, etc., etc., and nothing helped. Adjusting the ignition timing helped some.
A few years ago I finally replaced the fan with a 1933-36 truck fan P/N 837448 that pushes significantly more air. Problem solved. This fan has longer blades, 16 1/4 vs 15 3/4 as I recall, but I believe the real benefit is from the blade width. Looks exactly like the original fan except slightly longer and wider blades.
It took 2 or so years to find the fan on the internet, and not through ebay. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx I think you should also check the PITCH of the fan blades, because one half inch longer blade isn't going to effect the air pull, the pitch will. Its like airplane propellers and also boat propellers, the pitch is responsible for everything to do with speed. That's the extent of my knowledge re props. mike 
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While I have no doubt that the truck fan helped to overcome the problem I think the cause still remains. When these cars were new they ran in the cities and in parades and I doubt overheating was as big a problem as it seems to be today. Finding the cause of the overheating and eliminating it would most likely eliminate the need for increased air flow whether by alternate fans or electric fans.
Steve D
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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One thing I didn't mention in my earlier posting, the 1933 Chevrolet Master car engine was known to suffer the same overheating issue from new. I knew several older VCCA members (70+ years old) back in 1970 who told me the 1933 Masters has always overheated while not moving for several minutes, even when the cars were new. They could not tell me why the 32 or 34 engines did not have this issue, but like they told me specifically the 1933 was prone to this problem.
I have owned my 1933 for 45 years and the pitch of my original fan blade was the way the fan came out of the factory in 1933. For the most part it is not the addition length of the truck fan that moves more air it is the added width of the blades and apparent increased pitch associated with the wider blades.
From flying military EC-130 aircraft for over 22 years out of a 30 year military flying career I know you don't want to randomly adjust the pitch of props or fan blades for that matter. There are two type of balance for a prop (and fan blade), they are static and dynamic balance. Static is the balance related to even distribution of weight and that is simple. The more difficult balancing is the dynamic balance, where each blade must be pulling air at the same rate while spinning otherwise it has the same effect as being out of static balance while spinning. It requires some very sophisticated equipment for aircraft mechanics to dynamically balance an aircraft propeller and I am sure the same would apply to a fan if someone attempted to change the fan blade pitch.
An out of balance (static or dynamic) fan blade could cause the water pump bushings to fail earlier than normal.
Last edited by Vila; 01/28/17 08:23 PM.
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Steve D and Villa, I hope this doesn't tick Mike off. He rightly is always encoraging us to research the problem in past posts. Can't argue with that. But who has time for that? Anyhow, Sjaysopp, I suggest the following: A. Use a air compressor and through the bottom hose reverse flush the radiation. Take the top hose off and port the gusts of water off the engine.Use a rag around the air chuck to help force as much air pressure into the bottom of the radiator as possible. B. Important. Take the thermostat out and fill the engine with water. Crank it to check for bubbles caused by a blown head gasket, head or block. With the fan belt rripped the water should stay static. If there are bubbles, they indicate there is compression escaping in the combustion camber. C. With the thermostat out use the aircompressor and a chuck to blow back through the petcock at the left rear of the engine. Keep the engine filled. Do this until the water runs clear out of the block at the petcock. The above will not harm the heating system but it may help. How much depends on the results of the procedure, of course. It is not difficult and is well worth the try. A trouragly cleaned block, new radiator core or one boiled and rodded should cleat the problem assuming that the cracks in the head or block are not an issue. I don't know if the 33 had a true honeycomb radiator or not. If it does then it vannot be rodded. Just boiled. Not near as good. The bending of the fan blades will only set up a dynamis vibration just a Villa has said. Don't mess with them. Use of a truck fan pulling more air takes horsepower and only masks the real problem. It doesn't takke much to realize that. Good luck. Charlie Sorry Mike. And yes search of the post archives will disclose that I have given the same advice umpteen times over the last few years.
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CHARLIE , I FINALLY FOUND A NEW, NEW YEARS RESOLUTION TO STICK TO...... I WILL NO LONGER GET INVOLVED WITH POSTERS REQUIRING ASSISTANCE ON SOLVING THEIR OVERHEATING PROBLEMS. YOU AND I JUST KEEP POSTING ADVICE AND I THINK A LOT OF THESE PEOPLE , WHO RARELY EVER SAY THANK YOU, ARE ON THEIR OWN. THEY ARE NOT TAKING OUR PRIOR EXPERIENCE AND USING IT TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM , WHICH MIGHT ACTUALLY CAUSE THEM MONEY TO FIX. BEEN THERE DONE THAT SPENT THE MONEY ALREADY BUBB . CAPITALS ARE IN USE TO MORE EASILY READ WHAT I HAVE TYPED . MIKE LYNCH.......... 
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I've never even seen my car run and I've read every overheating post I could find and the info has stuck with me. I do not want overheating issues on my car when I finally get it back together.
I even removed the frost plugs on my freshly machined block to double check the machine shop flushed it properly (which they did).
All of these posts indeed have the same general theme and I'm glad seen the info well in advance of ever needing it. Your advice has not been going into thin air...
THANKS!!
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
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