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in breaking down my driveline, pulled out the throwout bearing to inspect. Does not look good to me. Below are a few picts, let me know what you all think, should i just replace it or is it ok to continue to use ?? Options to Fix/ Replace:NORS complete Throwout Bearing $130 FS-116 THROWOUT BEARING CONVERSION $90 CV-102 Changes from Carbon to Ball Type Bearing CLUTCH THROW OUT CARBON INSERT $55 835776 Throwout Bearing 1Dark Areas are friction wear areas, light areas are pitted, non contact surfacesThrowout Bearing 2Silvery/ Grey areas are friction wear areas, Dark Areas are pitted, non contact surfacesThrowout Bearing 3Backside, Looks like they painted the carbon, as you can see it bubbled upThrowout Bearing 4Dark Areas are friction wear areas, light areas are pitted, non contact surfacesThrowout Bearing 5Silvery/ Grey areas are friction wear areas, Dark Areas are pitted, non contact surfaces
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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Without ? I would replace and replace with the new ball bearing type. I have done it3 times and it works great. Just follow the simple instructions that come with it.
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The ball bearing conversion is the way to go. To stop transmission oil leaks from the gaps in the lock washers I suggest removing lock washers from the mounting bolts. Use flat washers and thread sealer on the bolts and make a gasket to fit between the transmission and clutch housing.
If you have old Chevrolets, other old Chevrolets will find out where you live.
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The ball bearing conversion is the way to go. To stop transmission oil leaks from the gaps in the lock washers I suggest removing lock washers from the mounting bolts. Use flat washers and thread sealer on the bolts and make a gasket to fit between the transmission and clutch housing. i was wondering about that, as i removed the housing notice oil in the cavity and was wondering why ?!? then i noticed that the threaded holes went all the way thru !! I was thinking of flat washers and thread sealer on the top portion of the screw, near the head so as NOT to get the sealer in the Transmission and Fluid !!
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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Without ? I would replace and replace with the new ball bearing type. I have done it3 times and it works great. Just follow the simple instructions that come with it. Roger seems to replace with the Ball type, the carbon has to be flat/ flush with the face of the metal ?? can you scan or take a pict of the instructions and send them to me ?? would greatly appreciate it...
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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Whenever you work in the clutch area, while you have it down it is always a good idea to replace the throwout bearing. what is the typical life expectancy of the carbon throwout bearing ?? say if i put 250 miles a year on my car ?? a few years or what ?? What about the Clutch Disc Facings ??
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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I just went to the grinder and made it flush with the metal ring. Grindes real easy. I'll see if I can email you a picture .
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I have about 12000 miles on a carbon release bearing that was new when installed 15 years ago. It still works fine. Clutch and bearing life are greatly affected by driver use but if not abused I would think most will get 20 years or more.
Steve D
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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I just bought a nos carbon throw out bearing from eBay. It is supposed to be for 29-30 it has the little oil cup on the side. How do I oil it? Is it ok for my 29?
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The carbon same T.O. bearing fit 1929-1937 models except 1933-34 Standards. It did have improvements over the years. The 1934 shop manual says to use either a heavy motor oil or light gear oil. Once it is done will not reqire further oiling unless it begins to squeak. The oil seeps through the carbon.
Gene Schneider
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In the service manuals it gives a location of where to drill a hole in the clutch cover to oil the cup on the lever occasionally.
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I looked at your pictures and it looks to me that there is little ware on it . I would oil it up and use it. It will last you a long time with the use you stated.
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everyone talks about lubricating the throw out ?? manual says not too !! should be dry. can you all elaborate on why and how to lubricate the carbon ?? and how often this should be done ? The clutch is designed so that the clutch throwout collar and pilot bearing are both self lubricating and no oil or grease need be applied at these points; also care should be exercised to keep oil and grease away from the clutch disc and clutch friction rings.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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The carbon throwout bearing is similar to graphite, a solid lubricant. Like nylon and Teflon it does not need an hydrocarbon lubricant to reduce friction between it and the steel plate. A little lubricant will not hurt as long as it does not transfer to the clutch plate flywheel contact area. My best guess is the recommendation to not use lubricants is to protect the clutch friction surface.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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Chevrolet added the oiler around 1933 or 1934. If it has an oiler on an earlier model the bearing has been replaced so add the oil.
Gene Schneider
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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The Mangy Old Mutt
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Looking at the 1932 owners manual it says to oil the reservoir on the T.O. bearing.
Gene Schneider
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From the May 1931 Service News. The new improved "oil type" throw out bearing and collar , now in production. can be installed on previous model passenger cars and trucks as far back as 1925.
Instructions and pictures ae provided.
Gene Schneider
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To get a complete set for any year you will need to get the previous year also as the model years do not match the calendar year.
Steve D
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got the service news, they have great info, used it for setting my brakes.
bought 1 year prior and year after... 1928-1930 for my 1929
was wondering about lubrication since looks like mine is the original bearing holder with a replacement carbon insert.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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Models peior to 1931 would be difficult to lube due to shapw of flywheel housing. That is why you would need to see the Service News. Yes, it is best to buy the issued a year before and the year after your car, 1929 being the exception.
Gene Schneider
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