Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



Visit the new site at vcca.org

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
#381747 01/10/17 11:54 PM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 55
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 55
Would someone pls be able to give me some tips on how to align the doors of my 1935 1/2 ton pickup? thnx Mark in AZ

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,469
Likes: 48
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,469
Likes: 48
Mark,
I will be helpful to know if your truck has original wood, new wood, new wood kit, new wood you made for yourself.
If new wood, how did you keep things "square" during assembly, etc.
I have not done this myself, but had many conversations with my friend, Roger, during his door fitting period.
I will call him and have him look at your post so the two of you can chat.

Mike


ml.russell1936@gmail.com

Many miles of happy motoring
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 55
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 55
Yup, I was too vague. My truck is a 1935 1/2 ton with just the original wood in it. The doors sag abt a 1/2". I have tightened the door hinge screws as best I can. There doesn't seem to be much play in the hinges. Just wondering if theres anything I could try to align the doors better. I really dont know much abt the possibliliy of doing doing so. Mark in AZ

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
ChatMaster - 7,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 7,000
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
The hinges should have close to zero play. If you can move the door up and down 1/2" at the lock side when open then I would re-bush the hinges, provided they are tight to the door and pillar.


Steve D
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 199
Shade Tree Mechanic
Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 199
Hi all,
Just my $.02. I assume that if the door wood is original than the rest of the wood is original also, if so, I would consider looking at not just the door hinges but the alignment of the pillars both the front one and rear one to make sure your 1/2 inch isn't the in the surrounding cab wood. I agree, there should be zero movement up and down of the hinge.

Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,478
ChatMaster - 1,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,478
If you are going to just take the slack out at the hinge then remove the through bolts and place spacers (washers) behind the lower door hinge and the wood. You may also have to "do" the top hinge with less spacers. This will raise the door in the frame. It will also push it (and back) up from the bottom if dragging. Check the wooden spacers under the cab springs that shim the back of the cab on the frame. These often rot out first. Or you can also shim there to "adjust 'level' the cab some" Remember that these cabs were "Hand Made" that they may not be "true". While the through bolts are out check the whole in the wood for wallowing out. If so these may be shimmed with pieces of wood as a temporary repair that will last considerable time.

Last edited by terrill; 01/14/17 07:44 PM.
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 55
Shade Tree Mechanic
OP Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 55
Thanks gentlemen for the ideas. Mark in AZ


Link Copied to Clipboard
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5