VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 35 Standard, on the road, sort of.....

Got the gas tank back in the car Saturday, started it and drove around the old neighborhood. late Sunday afternoon drove the 40+ miles to our new home. grinning like a possum after 3 years with no old car to drive.

after sitting neglected for four years it did pretty good considering all I did was clean out the gas tank and change the oil.

it ran reasonably well and steering is tight.
brakes are marginal, will open them up for an exam before more driving.
newly repaired gas gauge sending unit did not send anything. I was in a hurry and did not bother to hookup a jumper ground wire, so more work is needed there.
speedometer works but odometer did not- any idea what to look for? I have tinkered successfuly with similar speedos in the past and am not afraid to try.

on the to-do list: clean out oil pan, adjust valves, replace exhaust system, new tires......

progress!

you are on the correct path...keep going...yes clean out that oil pan and watch the temp. as rust may be in the system that can clog the head up. You have done good. Ride on, Ride on... that speedo may have to go to the shop... request that they repair yours and return it only...none of this swap out stuff or exchange...good luck.

You will enjoy your ride for sure. We had a '35 standard years ago and it was a fun car. A good car for the Six Cylinder Tours. Enjoy.

If you dare, take the speedo apart and do a visual. I found in mine a brass bushing laying on the bottom of the unit. I put it back in the obvious hole and the odometer works well.

I was concerned about overheating and carried 2 gallons of water just in case. over an hour's driving at 45mph, it stayed cool.

we will back flush the block and the radiator separately before any long tours.....

Chris,

I have a '33 Master undergoing a make over similar to yours. As it wasn't driven much over the last 10 or 15 years the brake performance gradually went down until the rears began to seize and stopping became a real challenge. Opening the brakes is a real job especially the rear ones so I had someone else do it and then I had almost no brakes at all and a hard pull to the left. So I did it all from scratch myself front and rear. A major part of the problem was that the fronts were not done at the same time and there was a lot of binding due to dirty pins and one of my shoes was bent at the pivot arm causing binding. Best to completely dismantle all and clean every part using high heat silicone brake grease very very sparingly on the pins and other parts that rub or pivot. If you have decent linings there is probably no need to change them. After reassembly adjust per the book. I also used a spring scale to make sure right to left force necessary to just activate each brake was about equal. I also found that the force needed to activate the front brakes is about double that needed to apply the rears (on the '33 Master). On a road test everything worked fine first time out.


Tom