VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 Torque tube sleeve

Checking underneath the Fleetline I notice a lot of accumulated fluids on my clean frame off. 3 quarts low?
Turns out it is from the torque tube as that threaded sleeve just behind the power gluide was loose by about 5 rotations? Is this normally something that undoes itself occasionally?

I searched the forum and books but how tight is tight? I snugged it down but felt like I could have keep going?

There was an article in the G&D several years ago think it was authored by Dave Cavagnaro. It discussed the loosening of the packing nut and a retainer that he had made to keep the nut from backing off. Maybe someone has a copy or remembers the issue.

The sleve may require a few "tightenings" before it stops leaking. The original seal was a rather soft rubber coated felt and easy to crush. The modern replacements are usually a hard cork and it takes more to compress and seal. Don't be afraid to reallly crank down on the packing nut, folding the ball with one pipe wrench and another on the packing nut.

i have had the same problem but a few drops of blue locktite fixed that hope this helps

Got the torque tube ring to stop leaking.,
Replaced a bad lifter on the number three cylinder.
Exchanged a warped valve cover from my parts car as I had oil pouring out the side and the gasket won't seal.

Now I have gas dripping out the vent line? After I fill it up even after tightening all the clamps and with all new hoses? Seems to stop as I start moving?

Always starts but reacts like it has a dead battery and seems like a real effort to turn over but within 2 seconds it fires right up. Just a tad scaring as I'm thinking it may leave me stranded.

Good news is she has close to 600 miles on her will do 65 in a heart beat and runs straight down the road. It's a new re build engine and I changed the oil at 100 miles hoping the stuck lifter or whatever may free up. When should I change the oil again do you think?

Sorry lots of questions

The slow turn-over of the engine is a combination of things. First the engine may still be on the tight side causing the problem, especially when hot. Also could be linked to the not-up-to-par battery cables or the starter.
The lifter, if adjusted properly, is probably the problem. Did they replace the lifters? Todays junky lifters seem to have this problem. Changing oil will not help. Does it make noise all the time or just when hot or cold?

We replaced the number two as I had to adjust it once since it was all apart.
The number three didn't hold the adjustment after multiple times. Once out you could push on the top and it wouldn't hold pressure.

I'm getting around 13-14 miles a gallon is that about correct?

My 1950 Power Gliide gives about 17 to 18 on a long trip driving in the 65 MPH range. With shorter trips and frequent starting with a cold engine your mileage will be lower. Once it is broken-in and on a long trip that rquires a few tank fulls it should increase.
If the lifter leaks down as described it is defective.

You may find this article of intrest.
Go to "old online chevrolet manual project"
The under Chevrolet misc.....Floyd Clymers "The Owners Report On The 1951 Chevrolet".

Found this article and may try this next but the blue locktight seems to have worked.

Problem now is the the trans fluid seems to be running out past the torque tube "new" bushing and into the rear end. Pulled the rear drain plug out of the rear end and got about a gallon of red ish brown fluid out. That explains were the 7 quarts of missing trans fluid has been going over the past 1000 miles??

So I guess its time to replace the bushing again? We did put on about 60 miles last night at some pretty good highway speeds and zero drips from the sleeve and it appears very little if any trans fluid missing so maybe it has re sealed itself?

There is a seal behind the rear bushing in the torque tube.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/04rear/4_05.HTM

If you installed a one piece oakie bushing the old rear bushing remains in place. The seal is on the back of the oakie and it is driven in place until it contacts the old rear bshing.

Based on the article it says the seal is different for the power gluide or it will leak.
My guess is my guy used the wrong one not in cased rubber.
I looked at some of the parts catalogues but not sure which seal is right?
Anyone got a number ot source? Or both?

Turns out that my Oakie bushing must have been damaged when my guy put it in as that can be the only explanation for the leak into the the rear dif.

Worse news is no body has one for sale and the manufacturer is no longer in business?

Some light at the end of the shaft is the Fillingstation is trying to find a manufacturer with the two they have left.

If my car was a 50 instead it does have a separate seal with its Oakie bushing and they are available.

ok remember I'm NOT a mechanic but my tranny/rear end guy says that he put the Oakie bushing in the front end of the drive shaft way back when and now had talked to someone who someone out in Ohio that tells him both the front and the rear need an Oakie busing but the rear Oakie is slightly different than the front.

anyone?

Originally the factory used two bushings. The front bushing supported the back yoke of the U joint. The rear bushing supported the drive shaft proper. When installing an Oakie the front bushing is removed and the rear stays in place. The original seal was seperate and behind the rear bushing.. ..That seal fit 1951-1954 cars and was same for P.G. or std. trans cars. The seal was different from 1950 and prior due to the torque tube being larger in diameter from 1951 and up.
The Oakie busing is all in one piece and the portion the drive shaft rides in and supports the drive shaft in a new, unused area so it provides a fresh location that is not worn. The Oakie has a seal on the back side and when driven in place it stops when it contacts the original rear bushing is which is not removed.

ok define drive it into the rear bushing?

rear as in back by the differential or rear as in upfront by the tapered part of the torque tube? near the u joint?

The rear bushing is a few inches behind the front bushing. On a 1951 it is pressed in and usually difficult to remove. Requires removeing the rear end gears and drive shaft, pulling the torque tube out of the car and using a special puller OR taking a long rod and goining from the rear driving it forward to the front, hitting on the rod with a large hammer.

Thanks, that is the plan once the newly manufactured bushings come in.

While apart make sure that the little jiggle pin is in place that is in the front U joint yoke. If it is missing too much PG. fluid will flow into the U joint area and pass back to the differential. It meters the flow of the fluid.

The Fillingstation finally got the Oakie bushings back in stock so my tranny guy got the failed one out and the new one in.
The old Oakie was a bit different design I guess and the seal had come out and I guess must have been just running on the shaft.
With the new one in now I have a hum on the deceleration? Tranny pulled the rear dif plate and I guess made a minor adjustment and it still hums. He said to drive it and see if it corrects itself. To me the hum is coming from the right ride to the rear of the transmission?? Hard to said driving by yourself.

Good news the new Oakie bushing is holding the tranny fluid where it belongs after a 100 mile hwy trip yesterday.
Bad news is the hum isn't going away.
Only occurs after she has been warmed up.
Doesn't happen going up hill.
However once you flatten out and step on it the hum begins and directly correlated with engine acceleration. Let off and it quickly goes away, step on it and instantly it's back.
Seems to be coming from the right side near the tranny but very hard to say. I'm thinking about pulling the floor Matt out and trans access panel and going for a high speed drive to hear better?

The hum under acceleration can come from a bad front pinion bearing or ring gear and pinion adjustment.

Could come from the U joint or a exhaust system hitting the frame.....

Pinion and ring are new and recently checked and adjusted.
I crawled underneath today and nothing seemed out of place.

I have drove the "humming" rear end machine maybe 150 miles and no change to the noise level.
I have decided to pull the rear end out myself and I'm taking the "T" to another mechanic I trust to investigate the cause of the hum.
It appears I back off the torque tube ring from back of the u joint. Tires and rims of course.
Then undo the break line, "u" bolts from around the leaf springs, remove lower shock bolt, e brake line, and the back shackle bolt I assume at the spring end instead of the car end?
And then pull the whole "T" out?
Correct? Suggestions? Warnings?