VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Removing water pump pulley 1929

Is the pulley pressed on? I tried my wheel puller, but I don't want to break the pulley.
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The '29 water pump pulley is pressed on. I put a supporting spacer between the front bushing on the "nose" of the pump and the packing nut. Then I push the shaft out of the pulley and then it can be taken out the back of the pump housing.

Don't use a puller on the water pump pulley because you will break the pulley. You should use a hydraulic press instead.

The press worked great!
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Now that the pump is apart, the bushings and packing seem good, however, I am concerned about the front bushing. There is an oil cap over the bushing, but there is no hole in the bushing to allow the oil to pass through. I have tried to locate a hole with a pick and blowing air pressure. Should there be a hole? Is the bushing porous to allow oil to seep through or did someone neglect to drill through?

I think they failed to complete the hole. No way for the oil to get in without it.

The bushing is porous and the oil soaks through.

The bushing should be sintered bronze (porous). They are make by pressing bronze powder under high pressure. Most refer to the trade marked name Oilite. Don't even think about a solid bronze bushing even with a hole to get oil to the shaft. They don't last long enough.

I oil the shaft on my water pumps by touching the dip stick end to the bushing/shaft interface every time I check the crankcase oil level. Does the job so far without failure. Didn't work with solid bronze bushing as it only lasted less than 50 miles.

The front bushing is an "Oilite" bushing which is porous and doesn't require an oil hole.

I'm so glad I asked this question (and did not drill a hole). There is so much good information on this board.
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Great idea!

Should the water pump be painted engine grey or black? I've seen both ways.

The water pump was installed on the engine before it was painted therefore the water pump would be painted engine color, dark blue-gray.

Gray.

The pulley is not on there all that tight, I have had good luck using my steering wheel puller kit. The pump impeller is a little tougher since it has been immersed in water for 70 - 80 years, but it will come off to replace the shaft.

The water pump repair kits come with a new impeller on the new shaft. I wouldn't reuse the old impeller due to 80 years of corrosion.

The shaft and bushings seem to be OK. The impeller was pretty rusted I wire brushed it and will see how works before buying the replacement.

Billy Possum used to sell replacement chrome molly water pump shafts and you would put all of your parts on that shaft. Yes the original pump repair kit came with an assembled shaft and impeller. I have one of those kits as a backup. I also bought one of the Filling Stations new ceramic seal style water pumps. Each have their merits.

The Filling Station still sells complete water pump repair kits with a new impeller on a new shaft.

I had not specifically looked in their catalog for that and was unaware that they were being reproduced again. I'll have to check it out. Sometimes it is just amazing how much stuff there is in that catalog.

The Filling Station WATER PUMP REPAIR KIT:
Part #RW-145
Kit Picture

Or go all out and upgrade with the Bearing Unit
Part #WP-836259
I have one of these on hand that will go on my 1929 when i get to the engine this winter :) Picts of My Bearing Water Pump from TFS