VCCA Home Forums GENERAL DISCUSSION New User Forum 1928 Chevrolet

Hi All,

I have recently bought a 1928 Chevrolet AB National 2 door coup with 171 Ci. 4 cylinder engine. The old owners told me that it was running a year or so ago. It looks like everything is there for it to run, but the year of car goes back farther than my knowledge. I was wondering if you guys could help me on a few questions. What type of motor oil should be used on this type of vehicle? What type of coolant should be used? (I live in Utah it can get to single digit degrees here). I have bought a new 6 Volt type 2 battery and a carburetor rebuild kit, because the carburetor is leaking and I am not sure if the old owners used gas with ethanol in it. Any other suggestions before trying to start this engine, would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Many of us use 10W-30 detergent oil. It has low enough viscosity to lubricate the internal engine parts. Higher viscosity oils don't lubricate the cylinder walls, piston pins as well. The detergent is not a problem with used engines.

A universal coolant, generally dyed green, either concentrate diluted 50% with de-ionized or distilled water. You can also buy prediluted but you pay a bunch for the water.

There are a bunch of things to check before starting an long idle engine. How many you do depends on how much risk you want to take. Change the oil and check the drained oil for water, crud and metal particles. If anything is found then it is best to remove the oil pan to check condition of the pan and lower end of engine (rods, main bearings, oil reservoirs. Refill with 10W-30. Take out the distributor marking the position of rotor and points. It is best to rotate the engine to position # 1 to top center or align the timing mark with the pointer so if anything moves you can return it to the same position as when the distributor is removed. Modify the end of a rod or dowel so it matches the bottom of the distributor shaft and chuck it into a drill. Rotate the oil pump until pressure is indicated on the oil gauge. Continue for another minute or so (that will fill the main bearing reservoirs and troughs). Put distributor back in place. Check electrical parts for condition. If in doubt replace. Turn on ignition switch and check for power to coil, points, open and close points with center coil wire removed from distributor cap and end held 1/2" from a ground. Got spark that makes a "snap" sound? Check to be sure you are getting fuel to the carburetor. Fresh fuel can be added to the vacuum tank or an auxiliary tank used. Crank over the engine with ignition switch off for several revolutions. Give a short squirt of carburetor cleaner (I don't like starting fluid) into the carburetor, check to be sure that the accelerator arm returns to the idle position. Turn on the ignition switch. If engine fires and runs you can run it for a short time without any water in the cooling system. Once it runs then you can add coolant. I would use straight water initially as likely you will need to clean the cooling system. It is best to use engine heat to improve the cleaning.

Thanks Chipper,

You have answered all of my questions that I have had about getting this car started, including detergent oil and if the standard green coolant at 50/50 mix is safe on this year of car. I believe that I can do all of your instructions you have listed, Plus I will rebuild the carb. One last question though, if the fuel vacuum pump does not work, do you know where to get a rebuild kit for it?

Thanks again,

You can buy some parts for the vacuum tank from the Filling Station.

There are some folks that rebuild 28 carburetors and vacuum tanks.