VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 more RHH08 questions!

I'm trying to clean up my first RJH08, it is off of a car that was "running when parked", yet the carb was in a box in the trunk! The only diagrams I find show 2 balls in the carb. One in the pump jet assembly and one in the check ball housing. Is this right? I did find one very small ball when I took the pump jet assembly apart. I did not find a ball when I screwed the brass piece out of the check ball housing. Is it possible to be stuck up in there to the point I can't see or feel it. Also, on the brass piece that I screwed out of the check ball housing, the end of it that goes up into the carb looks to have a crimped end. Is that the way it should look or do I have a damaged part? Thanks, I appreciate help and advice!

I don't have any answers, but I suspect pictures may be necessary.

You are correct there are two ball checks in the accelerator pump circuit. One in the ball check is held in place with a crimp on the open end. If the crimp opens much the ball can come out. The pump jet has a smaller ball that is held in when the two pieces are screwed together. The end that extends into the has a 0.020" hole in the end. Yes it is possible that the small ball is glued in place. I use a 90 deg. bent wire (very short "leg") and carburetor cleaner to remove a stuck ball.

Great,thanks for the info, I'm hoping to clean it out and make an old car come back to life!

If you continue to have problems there are two expert carburetor rebuilders that frequent this site. Either of us can help.

What setting would be a good starting point for the air screw?

Start all the way in to 1/2 turn out. Then adjust from there.

What sort of air cleaner does this carb have, or what can I use. I not trying be "correct", just want to protect the engine.

I tried my carb today. I'm not using a fuel pump yet, just using gravity to feed it. After I installed carb I hooked fuel line to it to make sure the needle seated okay, everything seemed fine. Started the car and let it run until it reached operating temp, everything seemed to work as it should. I went back later and started the car and again everything seemed to be fine. Now, I go back to the the 3rd time to start it and gas starts pouring from the air horn. I have taken the carb apart and reinstalled more times than I want to admit and can't find the problem. Needle and seat seem to be sealing when I'm playing with it off the car but when I reinstall it and hook the gas line to it, gas start coming through the little pin hole in the main body. Is the gas rerouting after it reaches the bowl and not raising the float? What am I missing here? Thanks

Today's modern gasoline fairly quickly forms gums and varnishes particularly as it dries out. Only takes a teensy bit to stick the needle to seat. I suspect that is your problem. When it overflows tap the gasoline inlet on the carb with screwdriver handle. Might take a couple to three raps. If that stops the overflow you have located the problem. Good quality carburetor cleaner and paper towel or rag to clean the needle (particularly edges) and crammed into the seat will remove the "glue".

Just installed new type needle and seat. The type that has a flat tip and is made for ethanol. Just at this moment I thought of something, maybe I should put the old needle and seat back in and try it. I guess it would be worth a try. Any other thoughts or ideas. Thanks

I have not had good success with the Viton tipped needles. I only use metal needles and have had great success.

If your old needle is metal, clean it and then try the metal needle and seat.

The major problem with the rubber tipped needles (in my opinion) is they are not as heavy as the older metal ones. The light needles are much more prone to get stuck in the seat than the heavier metal needles. I agree with the dog face that I don't like the rubber tipped needles.

Cool! Glad that you came around to the old mutt's way of thinking regarding the Viton tipped needles.