Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Hey guys, I'm new here. I inherited my Dad's 1931 Chevy Independence and it has been sitting for about 10 years and I want to get it running again. It is in good shape and Dad had it running before he died but I wanted to see if anyone could advise me on steps I can do to fire it up again without scarring the cylinder walls.

Any ideas? Thank you in advance.

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Grease Monkey
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Welcome to the forum. There is certainly a lot of very deep technical knowledge that this forum can provide pertaining to your 31. However I found a basic generic guide like the following to be quite useful when I was doing my initial engine start.

http://www.kaiserbill.com/Web-PDF/Start-Up.pdf


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I would put marvel mystery oil in each cylinder and let it sit for at least a week. Then i would remove the spark plugs and use the hand crank to see if it will even turn over. If the motor is free you then need to clean the fuel system free of old gas. I removed the tank on my 29 carefully and properly disposed of the old fuel and any residue that would come out. I then put a gallon of paint gun cleaner in the tank and sealed all outlets. I would turn the tank periodically, about every 3-4 hrs to clean the residue from the tank. Installed new gas line, rebuilt carb, inspected fuel pump for operation. Checked ignition system and changed the motor oil even before trying to start it. There is a whole lot more to be checked but this is where I started.

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I agree with everything that has been said so far.

While you wait for the MMO to soak the rings and down the cylinder walls, I suggest:
  • Changing the the fluids in the transmission, u-joint, differential, and radiator.
  • Check to make sure the brake parts move properly and are adjusted correctly.
  • Lubricate all bearings. Be mindful that the water pump uses marine grease or Lubricate 115.

Cheers, Dean


Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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If you plan on running a detergent oil (that is designed to break up crud), I would recommend taking the pan off and digging the crud out. I can't remember what post, but it was suggested to me and I remember when I starting putting my fingers over the from and rear main bearings it felt like metal but was actually hardened crud that took a while to get out. This way the oil won't break up the crud and it will stock up your passages.

Strangely enough, some pieces were missing out of my engine. For example, if you remove the side cover, the tube that drains the oil from sitting on top of the head back down to the oil pan was missing, causing oil to leak out of the side pan. It's not likely, but it'd be good to take a look inside there. I would probably adjust the valves while I was at it.

I would take the water pump off and make sure the brass plate is still present. If not, it will cause overheating problems. Mine was long gone.

Make sure that that both parts of the transmission have oil, the front and rear sections. They are supposed to level out with one another, but I've found that not always to be the case.

Others have had good luck with original water pumps, but I rebuilt one and had one rebuilt and they both didn't perform well. They now offer an original style water pumps that have bearings instead of graphite and my experience has been that these bearing style pumps are far superior.

If it's a coach, there's a tool box under the front seats. I didn't know this for two years after I got the car until one day I was laying under it and noticed the floorboard looked strange.

Last edited by Vetteman61; 10/29/16 12:56 AM.

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Here's a post I made a year or two ago that hopefully answers your question and gives you a bit of a checklist. Hope it helps:

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/357085/Starting_a_long-idled_old_Chev#Post357085

All the Best, Chip

PS -- Welcome to "The Intimidator"


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Grease Monkey
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Thank you the list is very helpful. Thank you to everyone who replied it's nice not having a bunch of smart [bleeped] answers for a change (another forum).


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Grease Monkey
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When choosing a battery for a 31...anything I need to know?

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Yes, make sure that the 6 volt battery has at least 600 cold cranking amps.

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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any ideas or tips on using a 12 volt battery to start her? I'm finding 6 volt batteries aren't easy to come by now lol

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Backyard Mechanic
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6 Volt batteries are pretty easy to come by here in Iowa. My locally owned parts store had them on the shelf. Can't speak for the big chains, they are a last resort source for anything.

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I live in a rural area and 6 volt batteries are not problem to locate. Each battery store carries them as well as NAPA and other places.

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The Mangy Old Mutt

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Farm supply stores always have them here in Iowa.


Ed
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"it's nice not having a bunch of smart [bleeped] answers for a change."

Dalefan3,

You may want to just ignore the following. Your call.

Well, you spoke too soon. Whatever. The way I look at it is that all you have received so far is smart beeped answers:

Here is my suggestion"

a. Get a piece of length/section of pump pipe.

b. Run a 3/8th chain through it (reinstall the hook)

c. Hook one end to the 31 using the bumper brackets and the other to a buddy's prized car (hook anywhere convenient)

d. Get some gas and put it in a bean can. (take the beans out first)

e. Have the missus luv2 stear the 31 (see more about her duties below)

f. You sit on the driver's-side fender and be prepared to trickle some gas down the throat of the carberetor. (if its an upside down carb. use a squirt-can or starting fluid. I don't know anything about no stinkin 31. stressed

g. After you are going down the road at about 10 MPH have the missus luv2 let out on the clutch whilst the car is in gear (drive will work and a check-list item)

h. After the engine is spinning and some gas is getting sucked in, yell to the missus to turn on the ignition. It'll be on her check-list but in all the excitement she may forget or overlook an item (see below).

j. This is important, have someone following this procession with a bucket of water.

Now it's your call as to whether the above will save you a lot of time or not. At least you'll know the depth of your problems. It is way too early to do those things suggested above by others. They are old and are now patient. Clean out the gas tank and fuel lines? Give me a break!

Notes: You may have to go over the procedure with those helping you so that all goes smoothly. The kid running with the bucked of water will need to proctice this chore so that the water doesn't slosch out too much. Give him a buck or two if not needed. Five bucks if needed.

The buddy pulling must know to not jerk the chain and how fast to go.

The missus will need a check-list pasted on the dash. There is no use telling her over and over what to do. Most of us would be wasting our breath, so don't even go there. First on the checklist will be that she should steer to follow in line with the pulling vehicle and to not try to pass once and if that old 31 fires up.

Do what you have to do. Clean up later.

You're welcome,

Charlie computer




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