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I am 100% sure it is not the master cylinder.
IF THE BRAKES WORKED ok UNTIL THEY WERE USED AND THE LINING MATERIAL GOT WARM AND RELEASED SOME FLUID I would be very confident it is the linings that can not be cleaned.
Also any nicks in the pull back springs caused by a vise grip or any tool can cause the spring to break. I used a brake spring pliers and the most damage that can do is make some harmless morks in the lining material.
Gene Schneider
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Here is an illustration and instructions for mounting the shoes. This is from the truck shop manual and it is virtually the same setup. This page and the next page explains it for you. Note that Fig 36 shows the tool used to remove and install the brake springs. GM Shop Manual
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
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Thanks Gene and old 216....I found a new set of brake shoes in the attic ....forgot I had them ...so, I`ll be putting them on next...is the brake return spring tool sold at local auto stores like Autozone .....I`ll look on Ebay ....I`ll change out the springs I put on ....they will probably break from all the wear and tear I put on them with the vice grips....Stay tuned
David Martin-Hendersonville NC, Pine Island Fl....... 1940 Chevy SDSS,
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Backyard Mechanic
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OP
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got return spring tool on Ebay -$11...do you think the drums should be ground? Nothing unusual ...no grooves ...brakes worked fine till this started ...sanding be ok if no visual wear?
David Martin-Hendersonville NC, Pine Island Fl....... 1940 Chevy SDSS,
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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Just sand the drum braking surface.
Gene Schneider
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Ebay item 371695362829 looks to be just like the one that I have and use.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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Question:....the 1940 service manual say that polished drums and glazed linings are essential...do not use any abrasive on the brake linings ......So, what do you think?? since many of us have sanded both over the years ....getting ready to install new linings and springs ...~D
David Martin-Hendersonville NC, Pine Island Fl....... 1940 Chevy SDSS,
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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They are refering to that condition after brake use and the surfaces are completely worn in.
The ideal friction surface is as they described, considered normal and desireable.
It takes at least 1000 miles to atain that surface over the majority of the brake linings.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 07/30/16 09:32 AM.
Gene Schneider
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Update on the brakes pulling to the right...I read many past posts by way of the chat search and most guys found that the similar problems stemmed from the wheel cyl`s. Mine too...I bought a small wh. cyl. hone and honed the ---- out of them( being first time , but 21 years old) I figured I`d give it a try. New shoes on the front ...and honed the rears too and new cups all around. That did it!...so after new hoses and springs and a number or times torn down and bled, the brakes work like new . I almost bought new front wheel cylinders from Rock Auto ,$55 each, but opted the hone route. Glad I did...Thanks to all that chimed in on this one ...PS...this was a lot of WORK, but lots of FUN ! wish my body felt like it had fun 
David Martin-Hendersonville NC, Pine Island Fl....... 1940 Chevy SDSS,
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Joined: Apr 2011
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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The brakes on my 40 sedan require a lot of peddle pressure to make it whoa. I can't slide the tires. I replaced the shoes, the drums are smooth and I didn't have them turned. It stops straight, just doesn't seem to have the stopping power it should. Am I doing something wrong or is this style of brake geared more for low speed travel?
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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You probably have stuck wheel cylinder pistons in some of cylinders.....common for this type of brake.
With a fairly hard push the wheels should lock up.
Gene Schneider
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Many times I found the problem to be with the side that is not pulling, That left side might not be working. Make sure that the left side is working properly first
John
1954 Belair Sport Coupe
1960 2 door Impala Hardtop 348/340HP 4spd
1962 2 door Impala Hardtop 409/409 4spd
1962 2 Door Biscayne Sedan 327/250 Auto
1977 Monza Mirage 305 4 Speed
1988 Celebrity Wagon
2018 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Diesel
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Joined: Apr 2011
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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I honed the front cylinders two years ago when I had a shoe delaminate and lock a wheel. I didn't look at them the last time. I don't believe I have ever looked at the rears. Are you thinking I have one piston moving and one not giving me 1/2 the braking? That would have to be on both wheels because it brakes straight. Sounds like I need to spend some money on cylinders.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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Then the fronts should be OK so the rears should be rebuilt.
Probably more than one stuck.
Gene Schneider
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I have had problems with the rubber hoses getting old causing all kinds of problems.
Rear brakes will not cause pulling
John
1954 Belair Sport Coupe
1960 2 door Impala Hardtop 348/340HP 4spd
1962 2 door Impala Hardtop 409/409 4spd
1962 2 Door Biscayne Sedan 327/250 Auto
1977 Monza Mirage 305 4 Speed
1988 Celebrity Wagon
2018 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Diesel
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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I would strongly recommend replacing all three of the rubber hoses on any car over 25 years old.
In the case of a 1940 they are readily available, fit 1936-1950, and all three are the same.
Gene Schneider
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