VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1940 - 216 Engine Disassembly

I may have been lucky or whatever, but have not had issues with my parts purchases (rocker shaft assemblies) from Egge.

What was wrong with your purchase of Egge parts?

You name the part and it had a problem. It would take a long essay here to explain all of the issues with Egge machine and the parts that they either make or rebuild. Stay away from their complete engine rebuilding service as well.

I used new Egge pistons in my 51 216 and it runs really well. I mentioned in a previous post that the rings were much thinner. This was sort of a heads up that the standard style rings would not work with the new style pistons.

Confused more than it helps. What should i do? Kanter is no option, too expensive, eventually still get EGGE, and when i hear what Mike happens.. No thanks.
About Chevs no one says something? More junk than EGGE? Alternatives?
Need
-camshaft
-timing gears
-pistons
-lifter
-valves
-valve guides
-main bearings
-cam bearings
-rod bearings( my shop will prepare the rods for them)
Where can i get all this for a good price and Quality?
Cant buy from several dealers because shipping and customs are very expensive too germany. for 1300$ parts, have to pay here 500$ shipping and customs


@Mike - Asbestos i bought from you ;-)

Deal with obsolete parts suppliers who sell either new old stock or new old replacement stock (aftermarket) parts. There are a lot of mechanical parts around and parts such as pistons and etc. are available. I believe that the Filling Station has some new old replacement stock timing gears for sale.

Check out ads in the G&D and Hemmings Motor News for example. Avoid purchasing parts that Egge makes and also stay away from any machine shop that uses Egge made parts. Your engine will thank you for it!

And I thought Egge, with their years of service, were one of the première suppliers out there. Thanks for the "heads up", junkyard dog.

You bet!

By the way, if you want to do a search here on Chevy Chatter, a few years back I explained about some of the issues with Egge. If you can find that post it will give you further information.

In the chevs Catalog there are valve cover grommets 838083. Do i need them? Can´t find them in the Parts Catalog and in my opinion they were also not installed.
And whats about the valve seals 3835333 ?

838083 gromets fit in the holes on top of the valve cover. The insulate the cover from the stud and nut to reduce valve train noise.

The 3835333 seals were used on 1948 and newer engines that had the two grove valve stems. They prevented the oil from running down the stem.

Do you mean this two marked holes? The Right Number in parts Catalog is 839083

YaYa

Hello Alligator....as far as searching for good parts ....there is an auto parts store in Hendersonville North Carolina......name .....Wards Auto Parts......you can find them online ...google them .....They have an extensive supply of OLD parts .....I have found many nos parts for my `40 there ....I would give them a call or e-mail them with a list of what you need .....

Those grommets are also included in most 216 gasket kits.

I haven't seen them sold separately from the valve cover gasket kit....one example is Rockauto, for less than $6:

Link to catalog page

Hey thanks for this tipp.I have the engine gasket set from chevs, its the one from best gasket - and surprise, surprise, they are unsude :-)

Long time, but now the engine is back in town. This week I will reassemble it

Little bit frustrated Today. Got back the engine from the shop but wht´s that? Thought they clean the Water Channels in the shop?!



And this was only after 30 minutes with a air pistol and a small hose as extension. At the end of the day i had a dust pan full with rust. The engine must back to the shop to clean it correct. Bad News.

Bummer Alligator !....can`t believe this would happen with the rust !!?? sorry you have to back track ....David

From what I see in the photos the shop did not do a quality cleaning job....far from it. I would definitely take your engine back and have it done right!

Hi Andre,

Good that you found the problem before reassemblying the engine. The good news is the the material coming out of the block is dried out so is not real stuck inside the water jacket of the block. Best practice is to always blow out the block and HEAD to double check the shop's work. Here is a link to a good post on this topic Overheating issues.

If it were me I would just re-clean out everything with air pressure and coat hanger probes myself, then run water through the block to see if anything was missed. The head only needs to be blown out before installing it to the block. No need for a water flush.

MY local machine shop cleaned up a head of mine and checked it for cracks. When I got it home it took me 1/2 and hour of blowing air through all the head coolant passages before the air came out without any debris. I then took the block to my engine rebuilder and he checked the block for cracks and found several, which he showed me. Even the best of shops can make mistakes so it is important to double check as much of the work as possible. I ended up with over $5000 in my engine rebuild, and the engine had to be returned after I had installed it because the rear seal had a bad leak. It takes a lot of luck, work, time, patience, and money to get through a restoration.

Is your machine shop going to replace the oil line that runs through the block? This is another problem area to test your patience Oil Line and Oil Line #2


Good luck, Mike

P.S. The debris in the block might also be caused by the shop not removing the freeze plugs before cleaning out the block?

Shops accustomed to working on later blocks do not understand the old car rust build-up problem. First the amti-freez from years ago casued rust if not changed every year or they were run with plain water which encouraged rust. You won't find this in an 8 year old or aluminum block.

Seems so that the engine shop has done his job. When i called them, they say: ".. yes, we have flushed the engine, there was much more rust inside..." and i can see they have replaced the two plugs on the side. Seems it is not very helpfull when the engine is lying 6 Month in the shop without water and anti freeze



yesterday pull out the other two plugs on the front and back, so i can clean it better again with air pressure.





The two oil lines i have bought from Chevs, but there seems something wrong. But this problem will describe better on the “ Oil line ” post

Next Problem … wanted to mount the Oil pump with the filter. But, Surprise, the filter doesn´t fit! The engine shop mounted the bearing cap 180 degrees in the wrong direction. Called them and they come on Tuesday to my garage to fix the Problem.
To the excuse of the workshop I must say, I had delivered the motor completely disassembled. But a call with me would have solved the problem…

If the line bored the main bearing reversing the cap will throw-off the alignment.
If this were my eninge I would remove each main beraing cap and inspect the inserts an make sure the "other" moin bearing cap is correct. There is usually a F on the cap indicating front of engine.

It is common to find this much rust in an old engine. This is a good example why it takes more than just a water flush to remove all the rust.

From what I see in the photos and based on what you describe in your posts, I would definitely get another engine shop to do the work!

One question about the timing gears. Can´t find any details in the manual about the constallation from Cam- and Crankshaft? Have a german translated Manual from Switzerland, but the discription is a little bit confuse for me.

Zeichen "0" auf Zahnfuss, Nocken und Kurbelwellenrad müssen zusammenfallen. Die 8. Zahnlücke des Nockenwellenrades (durch Mitte Keilnut nach Rechts gerechnet) muss sich in den 5.Zahn des Kurbelwellenrades (von Mitte Kurbelwellenraddurch Mitte Keilnut nach links gerechnet) einschieben)

Translation: The sign "0" on tooth foot. The Cam and crankshaft must coincide. The 8th tooth gap of the camshaft sprocket (calculated from the center keyway to the right) must be inserted into the 5th tooth of the crankshaft gear (from center crankshaft sprocket through the center keyway to the left)

What do they mean with the Tooth Root?? Were can i find a sign "0"

There should be a "0" mark or a "dot" at the base of a tooth.