VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 34 master overheating

Can the baffle behind the water pump cause the engine to overheat. I checked it during the engine rebuild and it looked OK to me and the distance in was good.

If it is loose it can cause overheating .
You can remove the water pump to check.

About 10 days ago I posted a question on the water pump baffle plate and it's relationship to the engine overheating.

In just these past few days I found the real culprit. I had the block cleaned at local machine shop last Nov before having the block rebuilt. So here I set debating where to go from here. The head check good, block & head surfaces are OK. I am scratching my head thinking things do not add up. For some reason I decided to put my 1/4 slot screwdriver down one of the 1/4 hole on the camshaft side of the block surface. It took several turns on the screw driver before it finally cleared. All six holes on that side of the block plus the 2 in the center were completely closed with crud or almost.
Thus I think I found the major reason I had a severe overheat problem.
My final step here before putting things back together is to remove the water pump baffle and give the block a good flush.
My question:
I have yet to remove the baffle and wonder if there is a right way & a wrong way to install the baffle. This baffle is about 1 3/16 inch in from the pump mounting surface which is greater the 1 inch the manual states. What I see when I look at the baffle is the shoulders (like looking at the inside of a cap). If it was installed in the other direction I would not see the shoulders and be very close to the 1 inch in for best operation.

The first thing I would do is go back to the shop that "cleaned" the block and let them know what you found. I believe that the cup type plug should only be installed one way and the way it is now sounds correct, though it may be recessed too far. Is the outer edge flush with the outer block surface or is it recessed?

The flat surface should be facing to the front.
Engine builders today are not aware of the amount of rust in old engines. Simple as that.
Flushing it with water will not remove or loosen the old packed rust. OK to flush after you poked the rust loose.

Been there done that on my 35 :(
My baffle was missing. Head clogged. Overheating all the time. Water jackets were clogged, and radiator was pushing 30%. Went through the whole system, now she runs all day at 180. Best of luck.

When I first started looking for the cooling system problem in my '35 Std, the previous owner had tried to improvise a
baffle behind the water pump, but it was loose and ineffectual. When I removed it and examined the block, I couldn't believe what I found! instead of a machined surface
in which to install a new baffle, the baffle hole in the block
had a 45 degree bevel and there was no way to drive in a new
baffle. I got some thin pieces of copper and soldered them together till I got a piece of material about 3/16 inch thick,
ground the outer circumference to fit space in the block, and
cleaned both surfaces thoroughly with brake clean, carb cleaner,
and acetone. I then let everything open to dry out good, and
very carefully installed my homemade baffle with J B Cold weld! When I removed the head ten years later to do a valve job, I removed the water pump to see how it was holding up! It
was still very secure, just where I left it many years and miles ago!I had never encountered anything like that before and I wonder if anyone else had.

I have not seen cup type plugs with the flat surface facing out. To install they should be driven on by driving on the lip of the cup. I agree getting the crud out is required and by contacting the shop that supposedly cleaned the block gives the shop owner the opportunity to correct his error and eliminate some bad publicity. Many shops live by the motto of: If you have a problem with our work -Tell Us- If you are completely satisfied tell others!!

The baffle really in not a "cup type plug"
The cup type plugs have have the outer "sides" slightly tapered for a wedge-in effect.
The picture in the 1934 shop manual shows the baffle being measured from the flat side and the ruler being placed at the very outer edge.
My thoughts

Thanks Gene as I was under the impression it was a cup style so I agree flat side out so it spaces with the impeller uniformly.

I have always called the near flat type freeze (welch) plugs "saucer" and the type with deeper sides "cup". On my 38 the plug "saucer" behind the water pump sits into the hole with the lump outwards and is deformed inwards slightly to secure it there. The "cup" plugs down the side are placed with the hollow out and forced in until the lip is level with the base of the champher of the hole.
Though it should not be needed I generally apply a non hardening sealant to the joint as surety of no leak especially if I suspect any out of shape surface.
Tony