What is wrong with yours? If the wood has rotted, split, or the peg that locates the spoke in the felloe has broken then new spokes are needed. (But I have seen broken pegs drilled and replaced but not something I would advise because of possible weakening).
The timber used originally was American Hickory and is excellent for the task. At least 90% of Chevs sold here in OZ had wood spokes (why I do not know. Discs were an expensive option). Our biggest problem is that the spokes can work very loose in our dry climate as the timber shrinks. Soaking in dams etc used to give temporary relief, and was a common enough practice apparently (if we ever had that much water!).
However the permanent cure is to shim the spokes with a .010-.020" washer (aluminium) placed over the felloe peg of each spoke before reassembling, the outer diameter being the same as the spoke diameter. The centre hole needs to be flared to follow the curved lead in to the felloe hole. Cut the hole the same size as the spoke peg and flare it by using the ball of a small ball-pein hammer, and a felloe hole as a dolly. Make sure the washer does not restrict the spoke peg entering the felloe, but supports the spoke at the filleted base of the peg.
I did this to the loose and creaking wheels of my'25 Superior K model 30 years ago and they run dead true are still rock solid.
To reassemble I inserted the pegs loosely into the felloe (number them so that they go back in exactly the same order) and left the center of the spokes (hub end) stacked up like a turkey nest. Then I placed the assembly in a workshop press and pressed the spokes down flat all at once by placing a flat board over the stacked ends. Everything creaked and groaned as we slowly pressed downwards. Then the spokes snapped into position, and only a little hammering was needed to get the spokes all perfectly flat in the centre (wooden mallet).
Because the spokes have effectively been moved towards the centre the hub may now be too tight and this can be relieved carefully with a wood rasp or better still is a flap of abrasive attached to a slot in the end of a 3/8 rod mounted in a normal electric drill. Make the flap long enough each side of the slot so as to wrap partly around the hole circumference, thereby ensuring it is always always in contact with the wood, and a remarkably round and even machining job can be abtained. Those commercial flapper wheel things tend to be savage and harder to remove material evenly all the way round the circumference. Mine were not too tight and I pressed my hubs back in without too much drama (took a few tonnes pressure though), but be sure to fully support the spokes close into the hub while doing this and lubricate the surfaces with linseed oil, soap etc. A tight fitting hub also places further force outwards through the the spokes and against the felloe.
Whilst your wheels are apart is a good time to paint the felloes, sand the spokes etc.Do not however touch the tapered mating surfaces of the spokes for these are very accurately machined and must mate perfectly.
All the above may not help you, but might help someone else with the rarer wood wheels over there. Wooden spoke wheels can quite readily be resurrected in many situations that may appear hopeless to the novice, even mixing and matching spokes from different wheels.
Good luck.
