VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 54 Transmission

So, just how hard id it to pull a 3 speed out of a 54 Chevy? Mine is in need of a new clutch and maybe some transmission repair. I have a manual coming but just wanted to ask around for some tips before I dig in.
:)

If you have the manual, it's not difficult. I've noticed on Ebay and other ads that sellers say the innards are the same for '49 - '54 trannys. They're not. '54 gears and innards are the best of those years. Check this out in a parts book. Rebuilt clutches can be good or bad. Ask around your area for advice.

not a bad job, made easier with a lift ot tall car stands. after the emergency brake mechanism ,torque tube and U joint is parted, clutch linkage, exhaust pipe and muffler, speedocable, etc.,etc. I jacked the torque tube up against the floor pan to get manuevering room. I found it is easier to remove the entire rear mount, two bolts that screw into the rear bearing housing, then pull the entire rear mount mount and metel holder that is bolted to the crossmember (lift the rear of the tranny up to get some slack) with a hydraulic bottle jack under the pan use a 2x4 for a pad, you can lower the rear of the tranny and engine enough to unbolt the two top bolts with a 3/8"drive ratchet and 18" extension then the lower two bolts from inside the bell housing The four bolts that attach the tranny to the bell housing are the last thing I remove and the first thing I put back in replaceng the tranny. raise the engine and tranny up a little, slide the tranny back out of the clutch and throw out bearing and turn it so it comes out from in under the car. You will need a centering tool, a plastic one is available from The Filling Station, or an old clutch shaft (splined) to align the clutch plate, pilot bearing and pressure plate before going back in with the transmission. I use a transmission jack to pull the tranny back, then to line it up and push back in.
One word of caution! be really careful jacking the engine up with a jack under the rear of the pan. It should not take much force to lift the rear of the engine, if too much force is used you can ruin the pan. be sure everything is good and free. You may have to loosen the motor mounts if they are new and tight.

Thanks for the tips. This will be a fun job!!

Mr Mack:
Good explanation.
But the bell housing comes out from where after you split the gearbox from it?
Will the 10 inch pickup clutch fit the 216 bell housing?
Maybe I can test it all together outside the car, no?

What I call the bell housing is attached to the block and the clutch is inside of it, the front of the transmission (clutch shaft) it probably should be called a flywheel,clutch, clutch fork, and throw out bearing housing, the 216 bell housing will hold the 10 inch clutch since the flywheel is the same outside diameter but the flywheel for a 10 inch clutch isn't drilled the same as the one for a 9 inch clutch, you will need to change the flywheel. If that is what you asked.
Yes you can test it outside the car and you can assemble all the parts ,engine, clutch and transmission then install the assembled unit in the car from the front, either remove the radiator or the front clip of the car.

You need not remove the Bell housing to remove the clutch or flywheel, in fact the clutch and flywheel need to be removed before you can access the bolts that hold the bell housing to the block.

Thanks, Mr Mack. My engine is a 261, so the right flywheel, but I think the wrong 216 clutch, who slips when floored in third. So a new clutch for a OEM 261. Will write when the whole shebang is ready.