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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 89
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 89 |
I have a 1953 235 PG block. I had it professionally rebuilt with all new machine work done, including line boring the mains. After installing the motor I immediately developed a rear main leak. To be sure that it wasn't something else, I purchased a leak detector black lamp light. AFter further inspection, it was evident that the oil was coming right out of the rear seal, down the front of the flywheel, into the inspection cover. I put a new rope seal in and still have the same problem. I don't mind a few drips but after driving for an hour and parking, I have a puddle under my inspection cover and a tranny coated with oil which drips onto the ground. It's not side covers or anything else, so I'm considering changing the rope seal again. Should I be using a neoprene seal on a '53 block? Any help ideas are greatly appreciated. We can't drive the car as much as we'd like.
mark47
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,162
ChatMaster - 10,000
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ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 11,162 |
Are you sure it isn't the Welch plug at the rear end of the block where the cam shaft is?
Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
The oil seal grove in a 1953 block is not made for a neoprene seal.Felpro lists the seal for 1955-62 only.Fits too loose in the older engines.Will fit OK in some but not too many.You could try inserting on in the main bearing cap.It should fit tightly into the grove and the lip should extend above the bearing insert.If it fits OK then slide in the top half. The problem with the rope seal is that its next to impossible to slip it into the top half with out destroying and stretching out the seal.If it is replaced the ends should be driven (packed) into the end of the slot before its cut off. You can read more on why not to use the neoprene seal at www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rearseal.htm Chevrolet also sold the neoprene seal in the '60's- and was listed in the parts book as only for 1955 -62.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 293 Likes: 2
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 293 Likes: 2 |
You might check for an earlier thread on this subject. If I remember right some folks had trouble the current rope seals and had to revert to rope seals made back "in the day". And Gene is right about problems installing the upper seal in the car (which by the way is usually what leaks). I've only done it once on my '40 and it leaked just as you described. I drove a 3/16" mild steel rod around the upper half which pressed the rope seal down against the crankshaft. I figured if the rod rubbed the crank it would leak also and if it didn't fix the leak I was only out the time it took to install the rod. I drove the car for another 40,000 miles and it didn't leak other than a couple of drops. Not sure what I would do with a freshly rebuilt engine. I would probably do it right and pull the engine and install a NOS rope seal.
Mike
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
Mike is correct about the modern replacement rope seals.They seem to just fall apart after a while.I picked up some NOS Chevrolet seals to use if I ever get to do the reseal job again.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 89
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 89 |
Thanks guys . That sounds like the way to go. Does anyone out there know where I can get a NOS seal? I have a trip coming up soon and I need to stop that leak. Thanks again Mark 47
mark47
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,299 Likes: 8
ChatMaster - 2,000
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ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,299 Likes: 8 |
I have them. bwbugay@aol.com
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