VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 Hello to All

My son and I are looking at a 49 or maybe a 51 Chevy two door Styline Deluxe. I say 49 or 51 because the guy who has it says it is a 51 but the dash looks like a 49 (one big round dash gauge panel). Looks to be complete not much rust ,he says it runs just needs points and a battery. for $1250. Does this sound like a good ballpark figure? Now a question about the motor, It should be a 216 right? Years ago in high school I had a 56 with a 235 is this basically the same motor? The guy also has a 59 235 motor and trans to go with the deal would this motor interchange with the one in the car or was there a change in the bellhousing to go with the open versus closed driveline thing. Sorry about the longwinded posts just have many questions. Thanks

Hello To you too & Welcome.
No idea I'm in England, but stand by.....

Kipper

there are some body design differences between a 49 and a 51, why not post the serial and model numbers so we can help you determine the year of manufacture. There should be a lot of archived information on the 235s and the installation of post 54 models in early frames.

I just seen the car one time and did not get the serial and model numbers. I will get them on the next visit and post them also I will try to take some pics.

The 56 combo would be good with their diff and rear springs. It would be then just a matter of getting 51 front brakes to have a very interesting car, with 140 hp and a good transmission.
Welcome aboard and ask all you want: answering makes us happy, sharing is a reward on itself.

I found out that the car is a 1950 styleline but not a deluxe. It appears to be very solid with good rockers on both sides minor rust hole on drivers floor. Hope to be getting it home within the nest two weeks. On the issue of front brakes I have seen several disc brake conversion kits availble which would seem to be the best way to go, but have questions about the master cylinder really like the clean firewall look , any suggestions?

the 49 and 50 front brakes are inferior to the 51 thru 54 front brakes which will interchange with your 50 front spindles. unless you're gonna install a 300+ hp engine, the old 51 style brakes will stop the car adequatly.i'd definitly go with the 235 unless your intent is a restoration to 100% original(in which case leave the 50 front brakes as is and jsut renew all the perishable front brake items)welcome to vcca chatter. mike

Well, you can always hide the 51/54 drums inside the wheel and be far safer. Mine has the original drums and brakes well, almost like a modern, at least in the first braking. The second going fast down a steep hill is another history, and you have to know what you´re driving, and take precautions accordingly. But nothing scary, just plan ahead for your hill driving. My car has the 3,55 diff and will do safely 50/55 mph downhill in second, relying on the engine compression. But discs are another better history, and one of these days will have them, with maybe no servo to preserve the feel and control.

More info
Style 50-1211 1950 2dr sedan
body ag 4523 ?
trim 170 ?
paint 428 ?

Any help apprieciated

We did a similar job on a '50 hardtop. Changed the
brakes to '51 - '54 by using a complete '54 torque
tube/real axle assembly with a 3.7 ratio(3.55PG is
also good). Found a complete '54 front end assembly
to get parts for the front brakes. Found a great
'54 transmission at a swap meet(it has much heavier
duty parts including four lug synchros and needle
bearings on the counter shaft). Remove the insides of the '54 and put them in your '50 case and they work well. The rear mounting location is different. Used a '54 235 with
all the original stuff on it including the necessary
heavy duty starter..Also, make sure that the steering box is the later type. It has a large X cast into the housing - easier steering from a 19 to 1 ratio. Early '50s had the '49 box. Parts from the two types don't interchange..

50-1211 = 1950 Special Styleline 2 door(Special was the lower priced model,Styleline was the trunk back style.There also was the Fleetline fast back style.

AG 4523 Body made at Fisher Body plant in Atlanta - car would have been assembeled there also.

Trim 170 = gray cloth trim (no other choices except for taxi)

Paint 428 = Windsor Blue, a medium dark metallic blue color.

What are the differences between the 53 and 54 box? Is the 54 much better?
Got a 53 box and i´m planning on using some brand new parts in the 51 box i have now.

'53 is a confusing year for transmissions. I've
heard that there are two versions, early and late.
I suppose the late one is like the '54, but I'm
not sure. The casting date of the case is easily
seen, but it's only an indication of early, late.

It is my understanding that the 54 , and I can't be sure about any 53, others may be able to nail down the serial number of the first transmission and the date that had the improvements. It is my understanding that the improvements included some bearings rather than the bronze bushings and also the double row of rollers in the area where the clutch shaft and main shaft connect, the double row of rollers were intended to prevent the transmission from "Jumping" out of high gear because of slack in the joint.

Gene is the recognized guru on this subject, from a knowledge of the related parts, as far as I am concerned, not that others are as knowledgeable on the subject. I have been told that the newer parts can be installed in an older case, if course it may require the complete clutch shaft, main shaft and the related components. I am sure there are members here that have done a rebuild with the improved parts, if it is indeed possible.

The only improvement in the 1954 3 speed over the 1953 was the use of roller bearings for the cluster (counter) gear.Previous to that the roller bearings were a heavy duty taxi cab option for cars and standard in most trucks.The roller bearing kit was also sold thru parts so an owner having problems could have his transmission up dated if desired.The kit came with the gear,shaft,rollers and end thrust washers.
I drove and beat many of those old bushing gear 3 speeds and never had a problem with one.My present '39 has 87,000 miles and the tranny is as new.Most problems arose when they were operated with no gear oil as the bushings were the first thing to run dry.
That basic transmission was introduced in 1937 and used up thru 1965.Was available in big block engines in both Chevrolet and Pontiac.......and in true Chevrolet tradition was cheap to manufactor.


(The was a change made during 1953 with the lugs/syncronizer but that was not a problem area.)

Gene when was the double row of rollers (clutch shaft to Main shaft) first used in the standard passanger cars?
I have a 2 51 transmissions with the single row bearings and a 53 and a 54 with the double row of bearings, the 51s and the 53 have the bronze bushings on the counter shaft. The only ones I had any trouble with is one 51 transmission that I bought in a parts car had the single row rollers ground in pieces and parts of them were welded by heat to the small part of the male shaft. probably from no lube getting to them.

The double row of bearings for the main shaft/clutch shaft was new for 1953.Was designed to eleminate the jumping out of high gear at high speed problem.Problem seemed to be most common in 1949 and again in 1952.The 1953 shafts could be installed in the earlier (49-52) models as a cure.Was often done under warranty for 1952 owners that had the problem.

Hey guys got the car home on a rollback. Upon closer inspection we are going to have to replace the front floor pans. Have been pricing replacments and noticed two separate prices for the same parts two manufactors want 135.00 to 140.00 while another manufactor quotes the part at 79.00. I know the old adage about paying for what you get but is there that much difference in the part. The less expensive part is 18 ga. steel ,but the other part does not specify the gauge. Does anyone know the orginal gauge metal used?

hello all i have a ? can i use a 2000 S-10 standard cab frame for my 51 chevy truck will i work and what do i need to make it work? any help would be great. thanks

Tommyskustoms, You probably will get better advice on your query at another site, most of the regulars here subscribe to keeping the old Chevrolets in stock, original condition, have you tried the Chevytalk.com site?