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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 14
Grease Monkey
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OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 14 |
I'm new to the vintage car hobby. I recently purchased a 1937 coupe with the original engine. I would like to know what oil most guys use in there cars, I will only be driving my car in the summer Thanks for any in put, Bill
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,433
ChatMaster - 2,000
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ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,433 |
Congrats on your "new" 1937 Chevy!!
10W30 weight seems to be the oil of choice for the 216.
Have fun with that '37.
ken48 VCCA 42589
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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Gene Schneider
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 14
Grease Monkey
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OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 14 |
Thanks, I'm sure that I will have other questions as other thing come up. Bill
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 38
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 38 |
All the old timers I've talked to say to use non-detergent SAE 20W or 30W. Unless the engine has been torn down for complete cleaning/rebuild DO NOT use detergent oils such as 10w30.
I'll stick with the original oil requirements for the 216 and word of the old timers. They have never steered me wrong.
Non-detergent oil can be purchased at any outlet that sells farming equipment/fluids. It is still used in many tractors. Also, they do carry the proper Fram oil chartridge which I believe is a PH4.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
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I don't know if I qualify as an oldster (I'm only 83), but my advice is to use 10w30 detergent. You can take that to the bank. 
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
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You can take the advice of your old timers or several of us that own and DRIVE old Chevrolets. Several of us put thousands of miles on pre-WWII Chevys each year. We have learned over the past 20 years that the "old timers tale" (similar to old wives tale) to not use detergent oil in old engines that have not been cleaned is pure bunk. The theory that the detergent will solublize the the sludge just doesn't happen to any extent. I have taken apart numerous old Chevy engines and the sludge is still there!!!!
BTW I am only 72, owned and driven old Chevys (mostly late 20s and early 30s) for only 45+ years.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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Detergents will help keep sludge from forming but does not remove present sludge. When a 1940 was new they required an overhaul job by 35,000 miles because the rings were plugged with carbon.....and the pan full of sludge. With todays oil I can see where these engies would easily do 100,000 miles with just a valve job. I also am 83 year old old timer but living in the present, not the past and saw these engine apart when they were new.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 07/09/16 10:44 PM.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Sep 2009
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ChatMaster - 6,000
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I am at the threshold of 82 and agree with use of 10w-30 as well. Wal-mart brand is just fine and cheaper. You gain nothing by buying the higher cost brands or oils. If you want to increase the production of sludge, use the non-detergent. You'll have fun with that putty knife in cleaning the bottom of the oil pan upon overhaul. Always use the lightest oil that willl do the job. For all around use, 10w-30 is most suitable. Charlie 
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,478
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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I think that if you have been running non-detergent oil you should not disturb the sludge build up with detergent oil. What the old timers were talking about is fear of a large chunk of sludge coming off and blocking the dipper in the trough. This could lead to a knock and replacement of a rod or adjustment of a rod cap. I run non-detergent 30W. I also clean out the lower end by running a Kerosene mix of 3 qts. and 2 of oil. After running at idle until normal temp. remove oil, the refill with mix. Run low idle 3 min. drain and refill with new oil. Per the book every 500 miles. It has worked so far and I do not see any reason to change to the new oil.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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If anything would loosen a "chunk of sludge" it would be the kerosene. Chevrolet never recomended kerosene for flushing. Years ago they recommended 3 Qts. of #10 oil, run until hot, and drain. If you use a dteregent oil there is no need to flush.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 345 Likes: 1
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 345 Likes: 1 |
Members in the 40`s and 50`s learn the most from members who have /'been there done that" thanks for sharing
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