Hi Chevgene, thanks for the interesting info. It Is not so important to me.Mine is from Chevrolet Argentina, the question arises whether the same colors were used. The outside color, by example, I could not assign.
A lot of work has gone by. The engine is back in the car and the chassis is on the frame. I also glued some insulating mats on the interior. More pictures can be found here on Flickr. At the Moment I reinstall all the Linkage for Throttle, Brakes and Shifting. And here i have a Problem. The upper Linkage does not fit at the Gear Box, at the Vaccum Shifter it´s perfect. In the Pictures I´ve made some Comments for better understanding. When I did the Chassis back on the Frame, had to loose the Steeering Wheel clamps at the Dash Board, because the Steering Gear Bolts doesn´t fit in the Frame. Had to do the Gear Box about 1/2" backwards. On the Picture from the Steering Mast you can see the Marks from the earlier Position. Is it possible that the Linkage does not fit in case of this? The other Steering Linkage Positions from the Manual are correct. It seems that the Position of the Chassis is a little bit too much backward, but all the Bolts fit - only the one on the left front doesn´t fit 100%. Tried to correct the Position of the Chassis - no Chance, and as you can see on the Picture, there is also not enough rest thread to adjust the Linkage. I could only remove the linkage and re-cut the thread?!
More progress I'd like to share with you. The passenger side had to be filled and painted, also because of the accident with the rear door. https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/291418/re-what-a-desaster.html# I painted with an airbrush gun. I think it is really good and the color difference is relatively small.
The next big step was to attach the front section. So that the whole looks again like a car. Unfortunately I had to find out that the left fender didn't fit at all. Unfortunately it cracked during the adjustment. It was already very rusted and thin. So there was a lot of sheet metal work to do.
Since there was no painting under the lamps and also no gaskets, I had to rework also here. The screwing edge of the fender had to be repaired and also the parking light attachment was perforated.
I spent the last week getting the overhauled engine running. After 2 days of failed tries I finally realized that I was trying to ignite the engine on the fourth cylinder all the time and it finally ran. A great feeling and an important step Forward
Last mounth i’ve got back the car from the upholstery. The interior is in creme velour. The windlaces are made with ”žoldtimer“ fabric and foam roller. Door handles, rear shelf and finger tipps at the sunvisors are in brown leather. The headliner was purchased at Rockauto. Very fine work!
Thanks. Want to buy by Le Baron, but they are gone. So there was no other way to get a new Interieur. Don’t know what i had to pay by LB(+Installation here), but that was really a big part of my Restauration costs. Because he had to restore the back armrests and the front seat was made a little bit higher at the back. The Sunvisors are a couples from the old visors and the new mechanics because the new visors from COT40s are much smaller
These days i made the first ride with my car. Feels great. Here you can you hear the first running of the engine. https://youtube.com/shorts/uurj6il9oIQ?feature=share Don’t no after years, but is this tok,tok,tok Sound correct? Or should i do some valve adjustment again?
Reset tappets with hot engine as it slowly idles.Not as difficult as it seems. 6 and 8 thou feeler gauge, 5/8 spanner to loosen nuts whilst engine runs and a large screwdriver to fit slot whilst tappets jump up and down. Start at no 1 cyl and by the time you get to no6 cyl its not so bad and the tappets are quiet.
Personally I much prefer setting not running... and cold. The setting will end up being almost exactly the same once the engine is "properly" warmed up anyway. This has been discussed in the forum before, and Chevrolet's own literature shows that the setting hot will settle out being the same as a cold setting anyway. And without the noise, oil spatter, and hot parts to burn yourself on. Also, much easier to tighten the lock nuts properly, and doesn't beat up your feeler gauges.
The noise I'm hearing on your video is unfortunately something deeper than a simple valve clearance issue. Clearance produces more of a "clack" than a "tok" Not sure what it is, but if you are really lucky it could be a bent pushrod touching something. While setting the valves, and before taking anything else apart, spin each pushrod to make sure there is no wobble.
I'm hoping for ya that it isn't anything deeper than that! :-)
