VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Upholstery - Interiors & Glass 39 Rear Side Window Removal

I'm getting ready to replace the right rear side window in my two-door sedan. The laminated glass is separating. I've searched these forums, 39 Shop Manual and 39-40 Body Service Manual to no avail. I found a posting for a 38 referring someone to the 38 shop manual. Perhaps I overlooked something for 39. Any advice or pitfalls for me to avoid as I get ready to start removing interior side panel?

I have had my 41 rear 2 door sedan windows out several times. I am assuming you removed the window crank, interior upholstered panel, the window garnish, and the sharp metal clips that hold the bottom of the garnish in place?

If it is similar to mine then you will need to unscrew the screws holding the glass metal sash channel (the channel is what the glass resides in) to the window regulator. There are 4 small screws accessed through the two observation holes in the cavity that the window resides in when rolled down. The screws are easy to lose so use a magnetized screw driver to unscrew them. Two screws hold the sash to the regulator in the front and two in the back.

With the screws removed lower the regulator/glass to its lowest position. At this point you need to be careful to not scratch the glass so carefully lift the glass up while pushing and tilting the glass so that the front of the glass is raised up and the back is at its lowest point. You should be able to tilt the glass in the front out of the glass felt channel and remove the front edge of the glass by pulling it out through the inside of the car. Do not try to remove the window by forcing it out towards the car exterior. You will scratch your paint and the glass.

I have run out of time so if you need more assistance let me know. I could post pictures latter this evening.

Good luck, Mike

Thanks, Mike. Some pictures would be useful. I haven't actually started yet.

Mike, I've been playing with my car on and off today. With temperatures in the mid-90's and the humidity at 90%, I can only stand it for a short time at my age.

I'm at the point where I removed the four screws (didn't lose any, but we'll see on the re-install!), but the window won't budge at all when it's rolled all the way down (which is actually halfway).

It looks like the sash channel has a lip that goes under the regulator which means I need to push the glass out from the inside and tilt it inside at the same time, right? It just doesn't seem to budge at all...

Well, I finally managed to get the window out. I'm sure it's the original and had 77 years of grime holding it in place. After gently wiggling it from side to side, it lifted out just as Mike advised. Thanks again Mike - your advice was invaluable. I suppose it will be just as much "fun" putting it back! Cheers!

Hi,

Glad you were able to get the window out with the terrible heat and humidity. I can not tolerate much heat over 80 degrees so I installed a window air conditioner in my garage. I open up windows at night to cool the place then keep things closed up all day with a fan running and the air conditioner.

My pictures are of a rear window with its rusty sash and the side sheet storage area in the back quarter panel where the glass resides.

The sash really takes a beating with corrosion through the years and should be refurbished before you reinstall the window. Depending on its condition you can remove it and repair the rust holes in it or you can carefully sand, clean, and paint it. I have done both with good results. A lot of the time the decision is made for you if you are replacing the glass. Anyone wanting to repair repaint their sashes let me know I will post the directions and process necessary.

Likewise, this might be a good time to consider removing your regulators and rebuilding them. If you think removing the glass was a challenge try removing a regulator. I have posted directions on rebuilding 41-48 regulators so here is a link to how I do it. Rebuilding Window Regulators



With the window up you can see the 2 left screws holding the sash to the regulator in the oval panel hole.



Good luck, Mike

Thanks again Mike for all the great info. The regulator works fine and the sash isn't bad at all. I'll certainly pass on doing anything with the regulator. I can see where it'd be a pain to get it out. I don't need any additional headaches!

My latest one (headache, that is) is trying to find someone local to do the glass - have two appointments tomorrow. One told me they can cut the glass but not put it in the sash - that doesn't do me much good. I suppose it might not be too difficult to do it myself - need to find the gasket material and I guess I would just use a rubber mallet to tap the sash on the window followed by cutting away the excess gasket material?? It'd be a new experience.

Hi Ralph,

I would purchase the glass from a major part supplier, like Chevs of the 40's, etc. I bought my glass from Bob's Classic Auto Cars. The quality looks great, edges are well rounded, great shipping packaging, and had it to me in about a week. I do not think you can get this quality locally. Although you will save a lot on shipping. I can walk you through the steps on replacing the glass on your old sash if you decide to do the work yourself. I have been meaning to post an article on the process. Your request might be all the motivation to finally do it.

Good luck, Mike

I think I'll probably end up doing that. I checked a couple of web sites including Bob's. Another one that looked interesting was Vintage Glass.

Mike, When you received your window, I guess you needed to assemble it to the sash. Do you do it yourself - if so, did you use tuff-pak or urethane - if tuff-pak, what size did you use and any tips for pounding the sash to the window? I went to an old auto parts store and they wanted to send me to a glass shop, but it was the glass shop who sent me to auto parts!

Hi Ralph,

I will answer your questions later today, and include pictures to help you and others with the process.

Thanks, Mike

I just read your post on rebuilding the window regulator. Extremely informative!

Hi Ralph,

I am going to post a lengthy explanation covering your questions so will start a new subject called "Glass sash installation."

Thanks, Mike

Great - really appreciate it! Having a hard time finding the correct size tuff-pak - in fact, can't seem to find it at all.

Google for glass setting tape.

Ralph,

Here are the two glass setting tapes I have used. Both are 1/16 inch thick. The left one in each picture came from Chevs of the 40's the right one came from my local glass repair shop. The difference between the two is the Chevs one has a rubberized embedded side over a fabric like finish on only one side. The one on the right is rubberized on both sides.



Because the Chevs tape is rubberized on only one side it does not hold the glass in place as well as the other tape. The canvas/fabric side does not grip against the sash or glass that it touches. Because of this the glass could move in the sash in the process of installing it to the window regulator. This would generally occur as you struggle to place the glass in the felt window channel that it rides in. Because the tape on the right, in both pictures, is rubberized on both sides it creates a better friction bond between the sash and glass.

As Mike mentions, in his above post, doing an internet search will help you locate other sources for the tape. ebay (Vintage Inc.) has it listed in 20 foot rolls and much cheaper than I bought mine at my local supplier or from Chevs. My math tells me Chevs would sell the same length tape for $120.00, at.50 cents an inch. Vintage sells 20' for $12.00.

Beware that a thinner tape is used on vent windows.

The tape that is rubberized on each side looks like the original tape that was used over 60 years ago in the factory installation.

More to come,
Mike

The last time I replaced a side glass in my '40 the replacement glass company provided me with glass setting tape. The tape was all rubber with no fabric. Their rationale for that type of tape was that you almost always have to trim the setting tape and, when you do, you expose the fabric to moisture and it retains the mosture and rusts the sash/channel (not that our cars are exposed to that much water). The setting tape closely resembled a piece of inner tube rubber and it works just fine.

Thanks, Mike,

The setting tape I recommend looks like all rubber. The one I got from Chevs of the 40's has a fabric component to it.

Thanks, Mike

Bear with me and don't laugh me off the chat site! However, I must ask the following question... I wasted some much time looking for tuff-pak and glass setting tape locally, that I'm now up against a time crunch to reassemble my car for a show at my church this Saturday. Not only can't I fine the materials, restoration shops locally won't touch it because they either don't have the materials themselves or they don't want the liability of breaking the glass. Those that would do it want to use urethane, but I don't want to glue it in place in case I ever have to replace the glass again.

So, Mike D. mentioned that the all-rubber glass setting tape resembled an inner tube - is there any reason why I can't just use a 3' piece of inner tube 1-1/2" wide; seems to be about 1/16" thick?

Hi Ralph,

An inner tube might not be quite thick enough so you may have to double the thickness. Use a lot of soap and it should work out fine.

Good luck, Mike

Used single thickness and worked great. Made the show and nothing has fallen apart - yet! Thanks to all and take care!