VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 366-P Distributor

Looking for a Remy 366-P distributor for my '24 Touring. I have a complete Remy 350-A and a complete Remy 374-A distributors, neither of which are for my year car. Any help would be appreciated.

Mike

Mike, try Gary Wallace, he might have one. They won't be cheap. http://earlychevyparts.com/

Steve

I am in the process of fitting a 350 type distributor to a 24. The 366 type has the control lever to the rear and 350 to the front when mounted so the 350 has to be turned 180 to match up to the rod. I hope the advance retard works in the correct direction or will have to add a bell crank in the mix.
Check the flange in the 350 for wear, that locates and centers the points plate. The one I have to work with is so worn that it allows the plate to drift well over a 1/16 inch side to side as the lever rotates it. We are going to machine and install a flanged 660 brass bushing at the top and Model A distributor busing at the bottom to take up wear. The car had the 366P that was exploding even with an epoxy repair and as it was they were trying to use the 350 distributor cap which is smaller then the 366 cap.

Or you could buy new;
http://earlychevyparts.com/

My 1925 Canopy Express uses a 366 P distributor too. When I restored it in the '80's, I was faced with the self-destruction of the pot metal housing. I fabricated a replacement housing and used the old internal parts. It works alright. But, from what I have learned since, a 374A steel housing from 1926-'27 can be substituted with modifications, like use the old internal parts and data plate (who will ever see it anyhow). If you are lacking the internal parts, I can probably dig up enough to make one up. Let me know if I can help at: gdchildsjr@sbcglobal.net
Good luck, George

I hadn't heard about modifying the 374-A with the 366-P internals. Sounds like something that would actually work though. Any parts you have for the conversion would be a great help to me. I will try to contact you at your email address and try to set something up. Thanks,

Mike

I have done the later (350 or 374) cast iron body substitution for the pot metal 366 body twice. There are a few modifications (which I don't remember the particulars) needed but don't remember them as too difficult. Seem to think one was length of advance/retard arm. Unfortunately one was sold and the other is 120 miles away.

I suppose I should consider myself fortunate in having the two distributors. I am already half way there.

Is there any way to just drop one of these in place and modify the linkage to operate the timing. I would not be opposed to doing something like that as this will be a driver and not a show car or be in any judging competitions.

Don't think the distributor shaft/gear will just drop in.

The 374 gear is extended and definitely won't drop work right but the 350 looks about right and seems to be pretty close to the proper length when I placed it in an old generator end plate I have. The end plate is missing a bolt wing and is cracked but the distributor sets nicely in it.

Thinking about it the 350 shaft and gear might fit. Just don't remember for sure what I did 15 years ago. Still think that it was necessary to modify the advance/retard arm. Can't hurt to try it.

I dropped the 350 in the hole(without gear) and went in. The body where it fits in the hole is the same or very close to both being the same length. The cam profile between the 350 and 366 is different but can be swapped as they mount the same. The 350 I have in hand is pot metal. The shafts are both the same diameter and length.