VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1933 Chevy Master brake lockup

Steve D, Tom, etc. Just to bring you up to date I completed reworking all four brakes and here is what I found/did. From the pull test on individual brake rods I discovered the front cables had a lot of internal friction. I removed them and hung them vertically and poured in penetrating oil, worked them up and down and then lubed them with oil and liquid moly. I think this will help a lot. Then as Steve suggested I sprayed the linings and drums with Kimball Midwest Finishing Treatment No. 80-1096 (aka Snake Oil). This treatment stuff is sort of greasy which sort of concerns me but maybe it will magically disappear. I put it all back together, readjusted each brake and tested it out today. At first, the brakes didn't seem very effective (lack of friction) but after many stops they were getting better. Braking is relatively even, no squealing, no lockup in reverse, which are all good things, but hopefully stopping distances will get better with time. Just try not to be driving in front of me for awhile. See you all at Tahoe, hopefully. Gene

I found very little difference in stopping power with mine. After applying the "treatment" I lightly wiped off any excess. Also the slack adjusters need to be set so that they are close to 90 degrees to the pull cables and rods for best power. Can you lock up the wheels if needed?? You should be able to lock up all four. It may need a little more tinkering but sounds like you are making good progress. Thanks for posting the update.

Gene,

I should be ready to road test mine this week and will post results. Cruddy front brake mechanisms were a big part of my problem too. Did you happen to count the coils or the length of your return springs. Just trying to verify I chose the correct ones. Tom

I did a brief road test and brakes seem to work like new. I think we learned from this that anything which would cause one wheel or two to bind up in any way could cause brake lockup especially the rear wheels. Causes can include extreme dirt build up within the brake mechanisms, unmatched return spings, sticking front brake cables and in my case a bent rear brake shoe yoke that was binding on the spider. Using the fish scale was a good test to compare right to left tension required to activate the brakes front and rear with the fronts requiring about double the rears. 12 lbs vs. 6 lbs in my case. Better than having to disassemble the whole lot later on.

Tom