Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: May 2016
Posts: 35
Frank32 Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 35
Hi, I pulled the motor out to find out why the clutch was stuck.

This is a tractor conversion that sat for a least 50 years, I'm told.

I took out the 8 perimeter bolts. There was no movement of the plate. So I carefully wedged cold chisels in the 4 areas between the 4 pairs of bolts, and I do see the plate moving out .010" or .020, all the way around, but it goes right back tight if I remove the chisels.

I can't find a pic on this site to know exactly what was said about the "floating discs" or what is stuck to what, before I break something :)

I can take a picture if needed. the motor cast date is 3-2-9 so I think it's all 29 parts.

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: May 2016
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Frank32 Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Joined: May 2016
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I forgot to say that the clutch pedal would not depress, it was almost rock solid.

here is a pic, and the plate casting number is 835821

[Linked Image from i34.photobucket.com]

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I am guessing the pressure plate is rusted to the flywheel. If you remove the 8 bolts holding the four plates securing the arms that link the pressure plate assembly together you should be able to remove the back casting. Once that is removed you should be able to see and access the actual pressure plate, treat it with penetrating oil (PB Blaster is my favorite) and work it loose. It may also be the face of the flywheel and face of the pressure plate are rusted to the clutch friction disk(s). Take it easy and don't pry too hard on the parts. The cast iron can fairly easily be broken. A little heat from a propane torch can also help supplement the penetrating oil.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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For safety's sake, I suggest putting a couple of longer bolts back in the clutch so that if/when the clutch plate releases from the flywheel, the long bolt heads catch the flying assembly of heavy metal.

Be safe, Dean



Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
old and ugly is beautiful!



Joined: May 2016
Posts: 35
Frank32 Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 35
Thanks. It took almost 1.5 hours of heating, rotating, and tapping to get the inner part of the plate free. I saw some red dust in one spot after 1/2 hour, so I kept at it.

I did needle scale the whole thing first. Then propped up the propane torch under the flywheel, and would rotate the flywheel a few inches every 5 minutes.

The springs are rotted/broken and maybe I have some V8 valve springs that will work. All 4 fingers/levers are stuck, as well as the slide hub. Should free up OK.

I could hear a piece of metal in the clutch disc area as I rotated. It is 1/2" or so, and is in the pic on the cast ring next to the short broken spring. Not sure where it came from yet, but the edges are all rounded from being in there a long time.

Now I will call my old friend tonight to see if he has a starter and ring gear...and a radiator.

Here is how I test started the motor with a missing starter, and many missing teeth on the ring gear. I wanted to know if the motor was good before I worked on the clutch.
[Linked Image from i34.photobucket.com]

[Linked Image from i34.photobucket.com]

Joined: Nov 2001
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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Likes: 64
Glad you got it apart. Takes some time and patience. Eventually a good penetrating fluid and moderate heat will get most stuck parts apart. Looks like it can be refurbished to work again.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!

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