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My Engine is in Front of the Finish line, but my Mechanic called me, that the thread from one rod bolt is defect. Now i need the bolts and nuts. But wich one ist the right and it seems they are difficult to find?!
Chevs40s has only used, don´t know if they fit - Nr.3835449. My part catalog(29-41) says Bolts 839102 / nuts 839103+107823.
Parts Catalog 29-57 says, bolts 3835449 and nuts 839102?!
Last edited by Alligator; 05/02/16 07:12 AM.
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The bolts you mention arre all correct. Just number changes for improvements made over the years.
Gene Schneider
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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Hey Alligator....I needed a set of rod bolts and got them at COT40`s....they were new and perfect replacement ....#3835449 
David Martin-Hendersonville NC, Pine Island Fl....... 1940 Chevy SDSS,
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Found this Bolts too, but they are used?!
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Check to find if Chevy or Ford V-8 rod bolts are available. By grinding a flat on one side of the head I routinely use them on my early 6 engines. Also use new lock nuts after adjusting the rod bearings with non-locking nuts.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Hi Alligator,
I have a lot of used connecting rod cap bolts I have collected from several parted-out engines. If you would like me to send you some let me know. I guess the same bolts were used from 33-52?
Best wishes, Mike
Mike 41 Chevy
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I believe the earlier (pre 216?) bolts had holes for cotterpins.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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The 216 engine in my 1937 car has cotter pinned connecting rod bolts. Block was cast February 2, 1937. Tom
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1940 was the first to NOT HAVE COTTER PINS.
Gene Schneider
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Correct, there are no cotter pins
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I realize that this is an older post but the content is relevant.
I just finished rechecking and adjusting the rod bearing clearances on my '37 Master Coupe. I am debating if I want to continue to use the slotted nuts and cotter pins on the rods or go to a prevailing torque (locking style) nut?
Is there anything special about the Chevy lock nut or can I use a Grade 5 3/8" fine thread all metal lock nut?
Thanks!
Rusty
VCCA #44680
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I would suspect that the 1940 and up that used a regular nut and locking pal nut used a special nut due to the fact that is a special part number for it. Also used a locking pal nut (stamped thin tin nut that jambed the threads)
Gene Schneider
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Gene, Now those right there are a couple of sentences that are really easy to follow. Thanks for making them crystal clear. Best, Charlie 
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I have used modern Chevy big block or Ford rod bolts on a couple of rebuilds. It is necessary to grind one side of the bolt head flat. I use regular nuts to set the shims torque them to 25-30 ft/lbs. After all is set I install modern self locking nuts and torque to the same value. I get used rod bolts from my local machine shop that have been replaced on modern rebuilds. Even used they are much stronger that the original Chevy bolts. Never found a stretched one but do check them.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Hi Chipper and Gene,
I will try to keep this short so we do not lose Charley's attention. Just kidding!
Gene: I did some more research on the rod nut that is used with the stamped metal (PAL) locking nut. The key difference between it and a regular nut is that one face of the rod nut has a greater chamfer. This deeper chamfer allows the center of the PAL nut to get closer to the center of the rod nut before the PAL nut locks on the corners of the hex on the rod nut.
Chipper: I was aware of your practice to use the Chevy big block or Ford rod bolts. Based on your post I understand that you are using an all metal prevailing torque nut, probably grade 5. There would be no need to use a Grade 8 at these torque and load values.
Rusty
VCCA #44680
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