VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 1950 Oil Pan Removal

I need to remove the oil pan on my 50 DeLux 235. What has to be disconnected from the steering system to accomplish this and are there any pit falls I should be aware of before a I get in over my head. The rear main seal is leaking and I want to clean up the inside of the oil pan while I am at it.
Thanks :confused:

The center steering arm must be removed from the from cross member.There is one large bolt on the top and the two smaller on the bottom.Best if the wheels are hanging down free so the center steering(idler) arm can be dropped down out of the way.The only difficult thing can be starting the top bolt when reinstalling.I snug up the lower bolts and then move the idler arm around a bit untill the top bolt falls in the hole.Top bolt is slow to turn as has a very fine thread and can be turned only 1/6
turn at a time unless a modern gear wrench is used.

The rubber type rear main seal designed for the 1955 and up 235 will not work in a 1950 engine.The seal grove is too large in the older engines.A rope seal must be used.

When installing the pan the side gaskets must be installed first.I use grease to hold them in place.The end gaskets installed last so their ends but up against the side cork ends.A drop of sealer can be used at the joint.

When cleaning the pan place the garden hose on the mian oil trought feed pipe and check to be sure each pipe is feeding oil (water) to the trough.

Gene, just one question do you put the gaskets onto the pan first or up on the block first?

On the block-the long side gaskets first and the end corks last.

Thanks for clarifying that for our friends.

And please watch your language while trying to keep those end gaskets in place as you fit up the pan. :eek:

Bob

I made two studs about an inch long.Thread one in a pan bolt hole on each side.It keeps the gasket from slipping and guides the pan straight up so the gaskets doesn't get slid out of place as you try to position the pan.

Regarding the one large bolt holding the idler arm in place, I used brake cleaner and air to clean out the threads in the cross member, then scrubbed the bolt clean and lightly oiled it, once I figured out how to contort my hand and wrist it went in with out a problem. As long as you have the idler arm dropped now might be a good time to get a rebuild kit for it.

Thank You Chev Nut.
I have been away for a few days so I could not tell you how much I appreciate the inside information on this job. I do have the rope type rear oil seal. What do you think of hold the gasket in place with fine sewing thread? I just loop it through the oil pan and gasket holes and knot it there.
Thanks again guys.

The thread will help hold it in place but would use the grease also as a back-up.Some "glue" the gasket in place but that makes a problem if you remove the pan again for some reason.

I glue the top of the gasket but use grease on the pan. That way you can remove the pan later and the gasket stays in place on the block. Use pan bolts without heads to hold the gaskets in plase when first installing the gaskets as the glue will not hold it before it sets.

Thanks guys.