VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 38 Town Sedan Door Adjustment?

Hello,
Can anyone offer advice on how to adjust the forward door gap on my 38 Town sedan? The current gap is less than an 1/8 inch and I would like to increase it. I want to install the peep mirrors and brackets for my Fulton 800.
Thank you,
Mike

Installing shim stock between the front of the door hinge and "A" pillar or between the door and rear hinge half will push the door back. It will also close the gap at the rear of the door as well. Installing at each hinge is needed if you don't want the up/down of the rear of the door to change.

If the town sedan is the same as my coupe shims won't help. The hinge goes into the A pillar in front of the vertical surface of the pillar so adding shims will bring the door edge further forward. If that is the case the only solution I know of is bending the hinge. Of course if the town sedan is different all that doesn't count.

Thank you,
I'll take a look at the hinges. Your suggestion makes perfect sense. If it is like the coupe maybe shims are installed and removing them might help. If I could ad 1/8 inch that would work. Keep you posted.
Mike

Guess I didn't know that the hinges are on the front side of the "A" pillar and inside the door frame. In that case something must be bent. It may be able to bend it enough by closing the door with a block of wood or metal between the "A" pillar and door frame. Only take small steps or bends at a time. Be sure it is doing what is needed and not adjusting something else. Also be sure to do all hinge areas at once so you don't move the rear of the door up or down. No matter what method is used to move the door backward it will close the gap at the back or "B" pillar.

The hinges fit into pockets in the body and there is no room for shims. the manual clearly states that to move the door forward or back, the hinges must be bent. I learned the hard way that they are made of cast steel. I snapped one in my press. You can remove one hinge at a time by opening the door, removing the bolts, closing the door and pulling the hinge out.

Sounds like a hassle. I wonder if the tight fit of my door is correct? I have seen 38's with more of a gap. I guess my hope for simplicity is dashed.
Thank you
Mike

Fit & finish was not important then. You should see the gaps on my coupe, especially around the trunk. Another option but not a good one unless you're already planning on a paint job is to grind the edges back, re-weld where necessary then repaint the door. That's a trick the customizers use when gapping a custom. I thought the gaps were too tight on my coupe when we started to fit the Fulton on mine but no modification was necessary. Same with the mirror.

Maybe I'll give a try and see what happens.
Thank you.
Mike

I had the same problem on my Coupe…Tiny is correct…shims move the door the wrong way…what I did is I ground the hinge…using a hand grinder to see if it would work…it does…now I plan on taking it to a machine shop to kiss the surface I ground on so it is 90% flat…Billu38

Don't like bending hinges…Billu38

I like that suggestion. I will take that route.
Thank you

My 39 coupe door gap at the front is 3/8" and 1/8" at the rear, so I think I need to move the door forward 1/8". If I do as you suggested and add a 1/8" shim between the hinge and the pillar, the hinge would move forward by 1/8" but wouldn't the pillar hinge opening need to be reworked as the hinge plate moved forward?

Thanks
Mike

Depends on how tight the gap is. I'd have to enlarge the opening to do that with my '38.

yes my hinge fits pillar opening snugly. The door doesn't rub on the jamb but the door lock plunger hits the striker body before hitting the striker plunger.. means I have to turn the door handle slightly to clear and close the door. Does the 38 striker have a plunger like the 39?