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I have a dual horn(black, not gray), but not sure if it is a dual horn(1937-38) or Town & Country(1939)? ![[Linked Image from i957.photobucket.com]](http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/ae58/christjazz1/IMG_2002.jpg) I'm on Chevofthe40s to buy the horn grommets, but not sure which I should order https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/shop/...mp;sale=&showcase=&searchtype=FT-How were the dual horns(37-38) wired, were they wired directly to the steering wheel? Thank you Michael
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They are 1938 horns. The relay had a 12 GA. wire going to the starter switch terminal. I think it goes to the terminal stamped with a B on the relay. The existing wire that goes to the steering column (it is a ground) goes to the G terminal. Can't think just how the third terminal is wired but belive it for the horns and stamped H. Can't find the instructions right now but Tiny will help.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 03/03/16 12:26 AM.
Gene Schneider
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I was just getting ready to say that the flutes (or whatever they're called) look narrower in diameter than my 39 T&C horns - which Gene confirmed above. On the 39, there's a switch centered on the dash behind the steering wheel to change between City and Country. There's also a brace that connects to the horn bracket below the reply and runs to the firewall for extra support.
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I can take a look at my wiring on the 39 tomorrow to see which wire goes to which terminal.
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The bells on the 1937 horn are small. On the 1938 medium and large on the 1939.
Gene Schneider
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The center tab on the relay connects to the starter lug. The passenger side tab connects to the horns (both to the same tab) and the driver side tab connects to the horn button.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
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RalphL…the bracket to the firewall is in the picture laying on the cardboard box…so must have been on the 38 too???? Billu38
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It's on mine. It's necessary to stop the horns from flopping around.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
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You gents are awesome, thank you. I am pleased to know the horns are correct 38 Dual horns. I have them disassemble and was going to powder coat, but will clean up and paint for now with so much to do. Michael
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Just a quick post to confirm the correct info Tiny provided above after looking at my 39 today as promised. I had bought a pre-assembled T/C wiring harness from Chevs-of-the-40s (I think) which made it a very clean, correct installation. The wire coming out of the steering column is disconnected from the small horn and runs back up the firewall to under the dash to the T/C switch behind my steering wheel on the top of dash. Then the two wires from the switch connect to each the city horn (where it was disconnected as mentioned) and the "S" terminal on the country horns relay. I don't know it's the same for 38. I have an info sheet for installing the horns if you want me to scan it and email it to you. Take care!
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excited to order the 38 dual horn grommets from chevofthe40s until I saw the shipping charge- $33.00(EEK) Vancouver Wa to Northern Cal. I will call hoping this is an error. The grommets are $25
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I think i was quoted over $200 USD to send 4 hubcaps to Australia, when i asked if that was the best that could be done , they came back at just over $100 with USPS . They arrived no problem.
JACK
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excited to order the 38 dual horn grommets from chevofthe40s until I saw the shipping charge- $33.00(EEK) Vancouver Wa to Northern Cal. I will call hoping this is an error. The grommets are $25 That's insane!! They fit in a small first class envelope for crying out loud. They probably source them from Steele. If they won't do better on the shipping check Steele.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
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I just bought some rust remover and rust inhibitor that I've been very satisfied with from California….product was $79 for 2 gallons…shipping…$64 !!! (UPS)….what happened to reduced shipping costs because gas has dropped in cost considerably??? A big "game"…Billu38
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Was the cost greater because of the product? hazardous? Diesel fuel has not had the same decrease as gas and neither has K-1 kerosene for heating. Just got some for my garage heater and it was $3.50 a gal. Last year it was $4.85. Gas on the other hand has gone from $3.50 down to $1.60 .
Steve D
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The price of gasoline versus other hydrocarbons (diesel, kerosene, mineral oil) varies based on the ratio of those to each other and demand for each. In the winter the oil companies sell more diesel and heating oil. At the same time people travel less so gasoline supplies are greater than demand. There is only a limited amount of storage. So in order to try to sell more gasoline the price to diesel price gets larger. The might lose a little on each gallon of gasoline but make it up in higher price for heating oil. In the summer there is more travel so gasoline is in greater demand and diesel can cost less than gasoline. The solution is to buy diesel and heating oil in the summer, gasoline in the winter.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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I needed rubber grommets for my dual horns and when I saw the price of them, I looked around for something else. I couldn't find a rubber grommet (such as for going through the firewall) the correct size so I purchased a couple that were a little larger and just cut a small piece out of them. I put the cut at the bottom and it is barely visible as I made the fit rather tight. Beamer
Last edited by Beamer; 03/04/16 11:59 AM.
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Beamer if you make a smooth, even cut you can glue the rubber together with super glue and then can't tell unless you look more closely than my eyes can see.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Chipper, That's exactly what I did. I figured with the heating/cooling of the engine (someday I hope) the cut might open some and not close so I super glued it. I forgot to mention that in my post. Also, there is a very strong rubber cement that electronics repair people use to make their own "rubber bands" such as a drive belt when the correct one is no longer available and that would work. However, I always have super glue on hand and that works just as well. Thanks for reminding me. I have since been to several car shows including Daytona Turkey Run and have purchased a very wide assortment of all size grommets as you never know. They are usually cheaper by the dozen at the larger shows. Beamer
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I found rubber grommets at Ace Hardware for, I think, $3 each. Used a little hot soapy water and worked them through. Took a couple of minutes but worked.
Brian
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thats a good idea, but I already ordered from chevofthe40s. Ended up 32.90 delivered so i figure support the reproduction industry. I must admit i would have picked up from Ace if I would have thought of it. Thank you Michael
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Gene…why is it so obvious to you they are 38's just from a photo with no dimensions given? I'm not questioning your opinion on what year it is …just trying to learn..thx…Billu38
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I am glad you asked that question. #1 it was a good photo. The bell on the front of the horns was small in 1937. The bell on the 1938 was larger. The bell on the 1939 was still larger. Also all parts painted gray. he mentioned the horns in the picture were black. I have some used 1937's and 1939's I can look at to keep my jugement in tact. Also the long tube (that passes trough the gromet) is 3/4" in diameter for 1937 and 1938 and 1" for 1939....reason for larger gromet in 1939.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 03/05/16 09:50 PM.
Gene Schneider
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Gene, Speaking of horns, what do you make of these The bell is 4.5" Brian
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If they were from a GM car or a car using Delco-emy horns the relay will have the Delco Remy name embossed on it. There were many versions of those horns with the mounting brackets being the only difference. The Chevrolet version was about the only one that had the long bracket that clamped onto the cowel to core support rods.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 03/05/16 11:36 PM.
Gene Schneider
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