|
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 687 Likes: 3
Oil Can Mechanic
|
Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 687 Likes: 3 |
It's the electrolock, it is supposed to go into the distributor. It supplies power from the ignition switch. Mine was disconnected also. some of the small parts may be missing. I suspect it was no longer working so someone modified the power to the distributor. There are many knowledgeable people on this site who can answer.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
|
ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
Based on the photos the cable is a 1930 or 1931 electrolock. It is an armored ignition switch assembly. If the lock cylinder is in operating condition an electrolock can be rebuilt or restored. The photo of the back of the dash shows a 1930-31 light switch. '32 uses a different light switch.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 31
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 31 |
Ok, now you got me intrigued.... How does the electrolock work? How do I know if it is working or not? This is a 1931 Coach. Is that threaded end supposed be to attached to something that attaches to the distributor (I am deriving by one of the comments).
Thanks.
Last edited by KMusgrave; 03/01/16 01:21 AM.
If you didn't build it - You don't own it.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
|
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
The electrolock is an armored cable that goes from the instrument panel to the side of the distributor. It is an anti-theft device. When the electrolock is in the locked position (lock cylinder in) it grounds the ignition system so that the car cannot be started. With the lock cylinder in the "pop-out" position, it clears the ground and completes the circuit to the distributor allowing the car to be started. You can tell if the electrolock is working by using an OHM meter. Also, an easy way to tell if the electrolock is working is to make sure that the distributor points are closed, then when the electrolock is turned on the amp meter should go to about 3 to 5 amps discharge. There is a terminal stud that sticks out the distributor end of the electrolock and the terminal stud is connected to the point unit inside of the distributor. Besides the terminal stud there are insulators, other parts and a terminal cup that are all used in conjunction with connecting the electrolock to the distributor. Check out your 1929-32 Chevrolet parts book because there is an illustration in the parts book that shows all of the electrolock parts. If you don't have a 1929-32 Chevrolet parts book you can purchase a reprint from the Filling Station in Oregon. 
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 687 Likes: 3
Oil Can Mechanic
|
Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 687 Likes: 3 |
http://vcca.org/docs/index.php?dir=Technical+Information+-+All+Years%2FElectrolock-1929-32%2F See if this link works, anyway lot of info in the VCCA resources technical center.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,566 Likes: 14
ChatMaster - 2,000
|
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,566 Likes: 14 |
Looking at the pictures it looks like a new wiring harness was installed. I'm curious that if someone went to the extent of putting in a new harness they wouldn't of correctly wired in the electro-lock or looked into getting the parts needed and repairing it. The harness looks just like the one that came with my car from RI Wiring.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4,374 Likes: 30
ChatMaster - 4,000
|
ChatMaster - 4,000
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4,374 Likes: 30 |
yeah cloth wires w/ tracers. for a reference here is the electrolock wired up on my 1929 with the distributor cap off I learned NOT to ask WHY people did what they did, as I usually did not like there answer or reasoning. Seen that all over the 1929, i just come here, learn, figure it out, and then fix it correctly.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
|
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4,374 Likes: 30
ChatMaster - 4,000
|
ChatMaster - 4,000
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4,374 Likes: 30 |
not sure... will have to look at it when i get home, and get you a close up :) i have not touched it since i got it, so the PO put it back together. I did notice that it has a Hex nut vs the Square Nut, tail tale sign it has been manipulated. am I correct in that the original came with a Square Nut on the end, which was a PITA to get off and remove ??
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
|
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 10
Grease Monkey
|
Grease Monkey
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 10 |
Morning, It is the electrolock cable. This shorts (mechanically to ground) the unit so it can't be started/stolen.
Later...
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
|
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
From a previous post on February 29th: It is an anti-theft device. When the electrolock is in the locked position (lock cylinder in) it grounds the ignition system so that the car cannot be started. With the lock cylinder in the "pop-out" position, it clears the ground and completes the circuit to the distributor allowing the car to be started.
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
|
|
|
|
|