VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1935 Standard Torque Tube Seal

I am replacing the washer,cork seal, and bushing in my torque tube. Over researching the manual vs FS tech article they have a "AF-661" seal. Does this AF-661 replace the cork seal and washer or is it in addition to the cork? Might be a stupid question but I am not doing this twice!

I expect the seal replaces the cork. It may also replace the washer as the washer retained the cork. Best bet is to ask the experts at the Filling Station that exact question.

Hi there,
I replaced mine last year from this site in the USA.
http://marxparts.com/index.htm

this page: http://www.bestgasket.com/dt_pop_up_picture.asp?PartNumber=6043

Peter

The owner is also a member of this forum and was very helpful in helping me choose the correct part, cant remember his first name..

Check out their "Tech Help". He will give you a blow by blow on that oily section of the car as to all the replacement parts you will need. (Lots of shop towels.)

After reading the FS tech article I called them. The gentleman reminded me that 1935 is a gray area and he was not sure of my prop shaft diameter. Not warm and fuzzy I called Marx. I was told the seal replaced the cork but he too was not sure of the diameter. He thought I would be better off taking measurements and going to the local auto parts store.

Actually you might be right on that one.

when I fitted the new gaskets etc , I had to make many outside gaskets to make the retainer fit. About 6 in all.
that enabled me to bolt up the outside retainer to the ball.
It now leaks profusely and a drip tray is needed when ever stopping for a rest. With out the drip tray, my shed floor would be a skating rink.
I have never found out why it need ed so many outside gaskets to enable the retainer to be bolted up, but whatever it was, it is clearly not working and lets the oil run out no-matter what.
I did hear of a tweak, drilling a small hole in the top of the gearbox, to relieve the build up of pressure? might this help in my case?

Peter

When I took my torque tube apart (which was another source of gear oil dripping) there was only one gasket on the ball housing. All four nuts on the u-joint were obviously rubbing on the ball housing. The outer edges were worn off. I noticed that the original u-joint had 1/2" nuts (wrench size) and the two spares that came with my car were 7/16". I seem to get "multiple choices" of why something was wrong with each task. Don't know if the previous owner simply put one gasket not knowing to properly shim it? Or was it the wrong u-joint. There were no markings on the first one. Having all the spare parts, I replaced everything.
My point is to be sure of what you are putting in. I have not yet ran my car but my fingers are crossed that I don't have to remove it ever again. In my world 600 wt. oil is the new Super Glue! It was stuck to everything under my car...

Is there not a return flow hole for your oil? Check to be sure open hole. Also drilling a hole see search post at top to see what was wrote on that.

Thanks for replying. I don't know where or what to look for a "return flow" hole. As for drilling a vent hole on top to relieve pressure, I did that.

Some time ago there was talk about putting "O" rings on the ball to keep it from leaking in place of cork gasket. If you can find it in the search. I seem to recall caterpillar parts like for a crawler type of "o" ring, will fit, I think?

The oring I believe is for the end of the ball where it fits over the torque tube. Peters note regarding a hole in the tower is to relieve internal pressure and should help. Excessive leakage at the ball flex joint indicates either a damaged part or improper installation. And yes even when properly adjusted it will still drip a few drops or so.

Thanks for the info. I was told the o-ring in the gasket set is for 1933 cars.