VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 '32 engine removal question

I plan to remove the engine, tranny, and free wheeling unit in one piece as recommended here. I have most everything off and getting ready locate a friend with a hoist.
Before I proceed, any suggestions on placement of lifting straps or maybe just lifting rings bolted to a couple of head bolts toward the rear. ? I intend to use a load leveler.
The clutch housing, tranny, and free wheeling units together measure 32" long whereas the engine block by itself measures aprox. 31".

I'm no rigging expert and happen to be a firm believer in the law of gravity.

When I pulled my engine with tranny I attached a lifting bracket at a front left head bolt and one on the right rear. Because the engine is so close to the cowl in the rear it will need to go forward to clear and then lifted. You will really appreciate the load leveler. Mine had chains and that is what I would recommend to prevent slippage.

well i strapped mine...
also use the cardboard tip to protect my firewall !!

Strapped up 1
Strapped Up 2
Removed
On My Engine Stand

I built my custom little stand and is working great, it rests on 2 Harbor Freight Furniture Dollies, so I can move it around.

BF315,
That is exactly the easiest way to remove and reinstall the engine/transmission assembly. The process takes stages. Lift until the clutch housing almost touches the firewall, then move forward. That creates more room to lift again so the flywheel clears the cross member. You may have to rotate just a little to bypass the steering column. Once you get to the transmission over the cross member it all comes forward. Just reverse to install.

Got it. I may have to roll the car out of the garage a little so as not to squash the crane operator. I don't know how maneuverable the hoist will be be carrying that long piece of steel.
Sounds like the key to success is taking it slow and in steps. Thanks guys. I'll post again (but only if all goes well.)

yeah i strapped it up lifted slowly, cleared the obstructions then disengaged torque tube from transmission. due to space it was easier for me to move car backwards then move lift w/ engine. also car rolls easier and is light. once car was moved it was EASY to move around the engine on the lift and place on my stand.

Engine on Stand
Cleared & Ready

Word to the wise when reinstalling put and extra cushion under where the straps contact the pan and block , If one of the straps get cut you'll drop the load. That would be bad...

I hear ya. Messing around with sailboats for 30+ years taught me there's nothing better than good chafing gear.

At the last minute I decided on the load leveler with 4 good attachment brackets to the head rather than the sling method. Didn't feel comfortable adjusting the straps properly. Glad I did. Once the flywheel section cleared the cross member, she rolled out like a greased watermelon !
Now it's off to the re-babbitters shop this week. I'm already having separation anxiety. Don't know when she'll be back.

Looking good Charlie. One step closer to getting it back in!

Great picts Charlie, glad you were able to easily get it out !!

looks like it worked well for your application. and noticed the CARDBOARD by the firewall. good move. Nice stand by the way !!

keep us informed of now it all goes.

now to get out to mine and get to work on it !!