VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 in's & Outs of a 36 Chevy

I was wondering what the ins & outs are of owning, driving & working on a 36 Chevy {?}

I know my way about 41's & 48's but not much about a 36. I do know some of the difference {wood, power train, etc.} between a 36 and the others. But I was wondering what some of the other things might be {?}.

Thanks,
Michael41

Michael,
I'll kick off the discussion. I've owned my '36 for about 4 or 5 years now. Haven't done a major rebuild, so I"m not speaking from that point of view.

Some things that have occurred to me:

• There is a significant difference between Master and Standard models
• My experience is that it's easier to find parts (especially reproduction) for the Master models
• The '36 model seems to be a transition year with a number of small changes such as fuel line size, and other tweaks
• I LOVE the hydraulic brakes
• I really like how it rides and the "feel/sound" when you close the doors.
• Rims may be an issue if you get a "standard"
• Lots of parts available, but sometimes difficult to determine whether they fit YOUR car.

I have driven 1931's for over 40 years and after the past 4 years, I'm still amazed at how nice the '36 is compared to it. And, I feel that it is fairly comparable to my '38 that I used to own.

All in all, my '36 is a "keeper". I love driving and working on it.

--Bill B

The 1936 is a tall narrow car compared to your 1941 coupe. The drive line and engine is of an older style, not a plus for highway travel. The body is full of wood which is fine if its not rotten. Master Deluxe with knee-action drives fairly well. The Standard with leaf springs won't compare in that department.
It will just feel like a much older car than a 1941.
Parts will not be as readily available as a 1941....You will feel like an old f##t when driving into a car show.

I have found that reproduction parts for a 36 standard are hard to find. Lots of listings for parts say - Except 36 FC. If you look long enough you can usually find good used or NOS parts on ebay. Street rodders are also a good source for parts. As Gene said the wood can also be an issue. There are vendors that sell the wood, but it's not that easy to replace.

I have owned my 1936 Commercial 1/2 ton truck since 1964 (52 years) and a '36 Town Sedan for five years. I have enjoyed them both after restoring them. For their day and time I think there was nothing better. I keep to original ways on both. Over the years parts have become easier to find due to the computer age. Back in '64 I wrote letters to get parts. I did not belong to a car club. It was to expensive. Times have changed for the better. This chatt site is a wonderful place to come to. While all of the above is true, I like the 1936's the best because it is during the "hard times" and showes that even then we Americans were improving our cars for the better. Just as today is we were then. It is our story and what makes America and Chevrolet great.

Thanks Bill, great info and dully noted.

Be well,
Michael

Thanks Gene & eveyrone for your knowledge and info.

Be well,
Michael

If you find a later model '36 with a "Z" as the last character listed on the Body Style line on the cowl tag you don't have to worry about rotted wood because the only wood use is between the body and frame. The doors and supports in the body are metal. I don't what month they stated using the metal frame but my 1936 Standard Town Sedan is a "Z" without wood.

The "Z" model is for Standards only and only the door changed to steel. The remainder of the body is still wood. See information in the n 1936 Service News.

Both mine are 1/2 wood and steel. From the late half of '36.