VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Helpful Information & Suggestions Correct tools

There is a post in the electrical 6 volt forum that struck my soft spot. It deals with a subject that needs to be shouted from rooftops and assimilated into all our mechanical procedures.



As a rebuilder of carburetors that others have messed with before I get them, I wholeheartedly agree. I cuss regularly (mostly silently) as I try to disassemble parts where the screw slot has tapered sides instead of the straight sides from the factory. I understand the desire to get things apart as quickly as possible. I also understand the frustration when the worn or incorrect size screw driver "slips" out of the slot and then sending it to someone else to fix.

It also applies to use of pliers instead of a wrench. Nearly worthless 12 point sockets instead of 6 point. I even have a set of 6 point box end wrenches that have proven to have saved many a bolt head. I can't remember that last time I skinned a knuckle or cut a finger when a tool "slipped".

Proper use of the proper tool will save: damage to parts and people. It is not only the cost but blood loss, pain, reduced effectiveness and even possible death. If you don't have the correct tool get it! and use it! Good shop safety keeps blood pressure down and work quality and pride up.

Well said Chipper.


I can't tell you how many brass fittings I've had to buy for the shop because of a "mechanic" having only 3 tools. An adj. wrench, hammer & pliers...Joe

Joe, Your post reminded me of a few complaints I got when I send back a brass bowl carburetor with the same nearly rounded off bottom nut instead of a brand new pristine one. I do that on purpose so those guys don't try to mess with a carburetor they don't understand and/or don't have the knowledge or technique to work on them correctly. I use a 6 point socket of the proper size and it will take off and firmly tighten all but the almost totally rounded nuts. I always hope they send them back instead of working on it themselves or worse yet having Bubba next door "fix" it for them. I have even gotten calls from "mechanics" commenting on the "old nuts". Go figure!

Bottom line is the noun "mechanic" is a very abused and misused word, much like the word "rare".

Both words are constantly misused, without a moments regard to their specific definitions.

You left out another word that belongs in that catagory........."Restored"!

Having the proper tools for a project is very important. Whenever I have been faced with a household item that needed repair and special tools I compared the cost of the tool to the cost of having a repairman do the job. The second time I use the tool and times after it's like money in the bank, to be used for the next tool. Many are quality used ones but sometimes better that new. After almost 50 years of doing so I am now the "go to" neighbor for tool borrowing. One of the best tools we all have is the knowledge available on this site and the internet in general. Having the right tool is important but knowing how to use it is even more important.

Ah yes, "restored" certainly belongs in there.

So does "original" Especially in "restored original".

Mechanic, rare, restored & original.

The mechanic restored the rare, original car.

I know I have read that sentence, more than once.

You would think that the word RESTORED should have only one meaning. That would be to put something back to the way it was when it was made.
How many times have you seen an ad that says 193X Chevy, Completely restored from the ground up, Then goes on to tell about the V8 engine, Mustang II front end, 9 inch Ford rear end, Tilt, Cruise, AC, etc, etc, etc. It makes my blood boil.
Magazines should refuse too run ads with incorrect terminology.

Mike

The NEW meaning of the word "restored", written by folks such as in your example, want the reader to know lots of money was spent on the car, with total DISREGARD for the meaning of the word RESTORED.

In fact, car shows use the word "restored", as well, when, in fact, a buffer and rattle can paint were used.

Well said, Bob.
I think "original" is probably misused as much or more than "restored."

Someone on the forum once stated that "...it's only original once, and that's when it leaves the factory."

Now I'm going to chill out and let my blood pressure return to normal. LOL

It's OK Rick, just lay down and allow your b.p. to restore itself to its original settings.

I buy second hand U.S., British or Australian made tools, in preference to new Chinese junk. If it was made 50 years ago, and is still in good shape, it should last another 50.
I have specialised tools which I made as an apprentice, and I still use them 30 years later. An old timer told me once -" Buy good stuff and you only have to buy it once".

You are correct Aero. I still have the tools I purchased when I was an apprentice and I graduated 57 years ago as well as some my Dad had or made when he was an apprentice.

Back to the tools.

I agree with everyone but Snap-0n cost a heap. So this is what I do:

a. If its a Phillips head. Any size Phillips head if have should fit. You just have to either push a little harder or get a hammer and chisel.

b. If a line wrench is needed I use a "vise-grip." They will fit all those mean ol' fittings at the fuel and brake lines. Just use the VGs to tighten the fitting back up after doing whatever it was you needed to take the line off. Easy!

c. Use a eight-point if that is what you find first. Six-points are for heavy pulling on the wrench or socket. If the eight-point slips then look again in the tool box for a six-point. Otherwise it's just a waste of time.

d. If its a nut that is standard then you can use a metric wrench or socket. If it slips then look for the right size standard. No waste of time if it works. Generally you can't use a standard on a metric nut though. Bummer there.

e. If you have a screw or nut, a hammer and a chisel may be useful in getting it out. Just locate the chisel at the outside edger and knock the sucker good and hard. Many times you can back it out. No drilling is always good. Besides who can find a drill and bit when you need it.

f. Vise-grips come in straight jaw or curved jaws. Use whichever one you have handy. Don't even look at the jaws until after the job.

g. Get yourself a cheap set of pipe wrenches, too. Not many applications unless you own a 37/38 or a Fleetline. They come in handy when adjusting Fultons.

h. Don't ever buy no clutch head screwdrivers. Just use the chisel and install regular Phillips or standard screws. Why did they use those clutch-head screws in the first place.

The above information is from a history of a professional "shade tree" mechanic and is offered nerely to put Bob and Chipper over the edge. I'll visit them at the "Home." I'll bring the Chinese checker board and a Slinkie for their entertainment.

Charlie

very appropriate