VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1937 clutch

Need some advice: I get hard shudder when down shifting into second gear. Several years ago I pulled the engine/transmission for a paint job and while everything was out I resurfaced the flywheel and pressure plate, new clutch disk, pilot bearing and throw out bearing and rebuilt the transmission. There is a hairline crack from a bolt hole on the flywheel that had the potential to creep but I took a chance that it wouldn't. Parts for this year are very hard to find I.e. flywheel/pressure plate/clutch springs so my question is to live with this problem or pull it apart again with the hope that I can find replacement parts?

Trasher,

Try to find the parts first and then pull the clutch, etc.

This way you will be ahead of the game. If you pull the clutch first you will have a hard time finding the parts. If you find the parts first then you will find that you don't need them. Accordingly, you can then sell them to Tiny and make a profit. See?

You're welcome,
Charlie

I understand that the 37 clutch setup is different than the 38. Is there a way of converting to the 38 style?

The 37 clutch setup is like an earlier Chev,lots of heavy iron and coil springs. The 38 is like all the later stuff, light pressed metal.You can convert using the later flywheel and clutch parts. I can't recall all the details straight off. I had a complete 37 setup, 38 and 48.Little differences like the 48 flywheel has six bolts, the 38 has four; (I think).

The 38 has a modern clutch setup and has the 4 bolt flywheel that will bolt on your 37. You will need the 38 flywheel, throwout bearing and fork. Maybe the bellhousing. The 39 will work also.

Hello old216,

Check out my post in the mechanical section of the "Tech" section, 2nd page....'37 clutch / DFD37chev.

I converted from a '37 clutch to a '38 until I can find "new" parts to rebuild my '37 clutch.

Problem that surfaced after the fact.....

When I put the flywheel in, I had not removed the starter, simply slipped the flywheel in.....the starter works okay, but occasionally I would hear the bendix drive rattle against the flywheel. I tried to remove the starter and discovered that the "nose" would not pass by the flywheel....so there is a difference between the '37 and the '38 starter

Also, my '37 has the starterator system, I think the '38 has a separate starter floor button, can it be converted to work on the '37, I'm not sure....probably Chevgene could fill in with more info.

Thanks to all for the advice. Since my 37 is hibernating until Spring I have some time to look for parts with the 38 conversion a good plan B. I'll probably be back for more help when the time comes.

While the 1938 clutch is an improvement there is nothing wrong with a properly working 1937 clutch. Especially for a car that is driven les than 1000 miles a year.
If it were mine I would inspect and repair the present problem which very well may be the transmission or?

Looked at your tech site--helpful, thanks for pointing me in that direction.

You will also need the bellhousing,clutch pedal and linkage,not sure if you would need the pedal and linkage on a car but I did when doing this conversion on a truck but get it all if you can.