Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#36049 11/18/04 04:39 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
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51steve Offline OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 63
Hello all,

I'm trying to remove the rear brake drum using a hammer and bar to gadually pry off the brake drum, but there must be a better way. Is there such a thing as a brake drum puller? I know that the shoes are free from the drum, but as I tap on the drum the side opposite wriggles back on and it is quite exasperating to say the least!! any help would be appreciated!!! By the way I'm practicing removing the drums on a 50' chevy rear axle.

Thanks
51 Steve

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#36050 11/18/04 05:14 PM
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Steve,
Sometimes those drums can be worn pretty good and have a large "lip" on the inner part of the drum where the shoe doesn't wear. If the drum is loose, I'd say that was the problem. Try backing off the adjuster stars (there are two on a 50, one on each side, you'll turn one clockwise and one counterclockwise))as far as they will go and see what happens.

#36051 11/18/04 07:57 PM
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Rear brake drums often rust onto the rear axle. You can heat them around the area where the drum goes over the end of the axle. That is what most recommend. On old timer told me that the best way is to firmly rap the drum between the lug bolts and toward the axle end (not at the interface) with the ball end of a ball pein hammer. It has worked many times for me. Sometimes I need to heat the interface also.

For you doubters what the hammering does is to dent the drum slightly putting pressure on the drum-axle interface where the problem lies.


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#36052 11/18/04 08:44 PM
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I went to the rental shop and rented the larges gear puller they had, the ends just fit over the drum and it was possible to tighten the center bolt, a little whacking with a rubber hammer, some prying delicately and liberal applications of Liquid wrench along with much tightening of the center bolt and off she comes, but am I glad I was out of the way because the drum popped off and landed half way across the garage. the other side fell off in my hands.

#36053 11/18/04 09:38 PM
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Glad you got the drum off, however I am now concerned about warpage or other stress damage to the drum. You should notify the shop that turns the drum to check carefully before turning them.

Agrin


RAY


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#36054 11/18/04 09:58 PM
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Sounds scary to me! :eek:

Any time you work inside the rear or front drums for that matter be sure the brake adjustment is as loose as they will go and don't forget to be sure the emergency brake cables are LOOSE and not frozen , then a sharp tap on the drum between the wheel lugs should break the seal between the drum and the face of the axle, the drum should fall off in your hands UNLESS the shoe has stuck to the drum, you can tell by turning the drum , there should be NO drag on the brakes. Like it was stated above, if the shoes and the drums are badley worn and a ridge is on the drum just having no drag on the shoes isn't enough, the shoes must be loosened off all the way with the brake adjustment spoon, two caps on each drum of the pre 51 brakes and one adjustment screw on the 51 to 54. Be sure the brake spoon is in a notch and that it turns, count each notch when you loosen and also when you tighten so you will know where you are.


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