|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 81
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 81 |
Does anyone know a machine shop that can convert Babbitt rods to inserted rods- at a resonable price?
macourtney
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 29
Grease Monkey
|
|
Grease Monkey
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 29 |
Connecting rod insert conversions:
Marc Hansen - EMS
PO BOx 48227
Seattle WA 98148
(206)433-0564
See add in G7D
DonC 14476
DonC
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 81
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 81 |
macourtney
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 81
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 81 |
I have tried repeatedly to reach him but only left messages and he has not returned the calls, anyone else?
macourtney
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 81
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 81 |
Another question along the same line?
How many rod and main shims can be used under new babbitt rods and new main bearings?
I am having trouble with rebuild my 53 - 235 standard. They are too tight.Checked with plastigauge shows over.0006.
Thanks for a solution, besides grinding crankshaft.
macourtney
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
|
|
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
When new they usually had 4 shims on each side-2 .001" silver and 2 .002" brass.(rods and mains).
How many shims do you have now?
If using plastigage is the engine up side down with the weight of the crank on the block side?
I perfer using the "drag" method for the mains and the "tapping rods back and forth" for the rods as per the shop manual.
If you have new or good babbited rod bearings they are just as good as inserts.The 1953 has the thin babbit rod bearings and would stay "tight" for 100,000 miles if oil was clean, etc.If did require adjusting just removing a shim or 2 was all that was required.
Gene Schneider
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 175
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
|
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 175 |
As far as changing to inserts, don't overlook checking local machine shops. I found one in my area that had experience and they converted mine when they did the machine work on my block and crank. Not a big deal, just bore out the big end of the rod to the insert bearings' specified O.D. and cut a notch in each half of the rod for the bearing tang.
The shop manual method of adjusting bearings as Gene stated works fine for these motors. Since your rebuilding, make sure to check the drag on the mains before installing the rear seal. It adds quite a bit of drag to the crank.
Bob
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 81
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
|
OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 81 |
I think you have ansered my question, thanks I only have one set, need probably three more for the Mains they are real tight, lots of drag. Did not get enough to start with.
macourtney
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
