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Hi. I started my 1934 Chev Motor (which I believe is a 34 master engine) for the first time since being rebuilt. An unusual noise was observed that was most audible from the manifold side of the engine (left hand side) in the vicinity of the sump and by placing my hand on the side of the sump you could clearly feel the tapping in time with the noise. I have removed the sump and can identify a mark on the pressed steel oil channel that is attached to the left hand side of the sump, there is also a shiny mark on the corresponding no 3 bottom end nut.My question is why is it touching, there is a possibility that I have fitted a 1934 std engine sump, can someone tell me is there a difference between a Master sump and that of a Standard sump Cheers Paul Mitchell.
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There may be a difference between Master and Standard but I think it sounds more like there is a misalignment of the oil channel on that spot considering it is only the 1 channel involved. Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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The Master engine has the water pump mounted to the block, the Standard to the head. The oil pans (sumps) AND GASKETS are different so they can not fit the wrong block.
Gene Schneider
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Hi all. I have both motors std and master and the sump I have will fit on both blocks where on appearance they interchange all bolt holes line up. It is my intention to tap the panel steel oil channel in a fraction as suggested but the conrod bolt can only be touching by a fraction of a inch, in saying that all the connecting rods must be very close to the sump oil channels. I wonder if anyone else has experienced this problem.
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If they are both 1934 engines the pan gaskets have different numbers. That being said the short stroke Standard engine wil have the oil troughs set higher in the pan than the long stroke Master engine. If a Standard pan were installed on a Master engine the rod, dipper, or bolt would contact the trough. If a Master pan were installed on a Standard engine the dipper wold not even contact the oil in the trough. I am assuming the channel you are refering to is the trough. Are you sure one is a 1934 Standard engine and one is a 1934 Master engine? I aam wondering if the 1934 Standard engine is actually a 1935 Standard engine....or????
Gene Schneider
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Hi Chev Nut. To clarify, the suspect sump definitely comes off my original 1934 Standard Coupe Motor which has the waterpump in the head. The engine I am using, unfortunately I don't know what year it is. I purchased the engine out of a 1934 Master, although I have no knowledge whether it was the correct engine for that car. The channels I referred to are pressed steel joined to the side of the sump to guide oil from the copper distribution pipes down into the pick up troughs. I will measure the troughs and a measurement of the conrod dippers, the bottom end bearings certainly appears to be well lubricated and no sign or oil starvation on the number 3 white metal bearing that I currently have off.
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What is the casting number on the right lower side of the engines? (raised numbers). The Master will be 837231 and the Standard 473741. This would be true for both US and Canadian engines.
Gene Schneider
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Some Canadian 1934 Master engine blocks have a casting number of 1776846....Joe
See America's First...Chevrolet
1931 Sedan Delivery 31570 1933 Standard Sports Coupe 33628. 1934 Master Sedan Delivery Canadian 177/34570 1968 Z/28 Camaro 1969 SS 396 Camaro
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Hi-the motor I have fitted is a Master - confirm engine number 837231-8. My original motor and spare motor are both standard engines - confirm engine number 473741-1. Both have the same sumps. The sump that came with the master engine i believed was the wrong sump. It is fed by an oil tube that goes into an elaborate pipework fitted inside the sump that ejects oil through the pipes in the troughs directly into the bird beaks, this I believed was similar to sumps used from 1937 onwards. I've since been down and re examined the sump and can see shiny marks where the conrods are coming into contact with some of the trough sides, so I certainly have the wrong sump and will now have to try and identify a correct sump for a 34 master engine. Cheers Paul
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Thanks Joe, the gearbox mount is great. I just need to sort out this engine noise. I am currently starting to paint the panels starting with the smaller ones first, while I get my hand/head back into painting. I am using Black Nitrocellulose lacquer
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The sump you describe with each trough having an oil line in the trough is from a 1935 or 1936. Chevrolet did sell a kit after about 1936 to convert the 1934 oiling to the 1935-36 style. In your case it looks as if someone made up a kit . The kit Chevrolet sold contained the 1935-36 pan, 1935 oil pump, connecting rod dippers,, and necessary plumbing parts. The oil pump was of the gear type as it replaced the vane pump at that time.
Gene Schneider
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You are correct, I definately have a 1935 /36 sump. I now have a job to find a 1934 master sump. I am trying to locate one in New Zealand if I can with little luck so far but I have received great help by other Chev owners here in New Zealand. All I have located to date are 1935 model sumps. Can any one help out with a photo or decription to identify a correct 1934 master sump
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Paul, If it was my engine I would make every effort I could to retain the 1936 pan (sump). The method of filling the connecting rod oil troughs was completely different in 1934. There was an oil manifold on the lower left side of the block. It contained six short oil lines that directed the oil to gutters welded to the side of the pan. These gutters filled the troughs with oil. The 1935-36 "change" piped the oil directly to the troughs in the sump and at higher engine speeds directed the oil directly into the dippers. A much more positive lubrication for the rod bearings. I would assume the oiling manifold on the side of the block and it's pipes have been discarded and the main oil inlet in the sump is connected to the oil sorce. If there is a receprocating part striking the pan I would takes steps to fix that problem. While the present pan is removed I would connect a low pressure (graden hose) water supply to the main pan feed pipe and make sure all the sump lines are oiling and aimed at the same area on the side of the sump the water squirts.
Gene Schneider
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