VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc 1936 coupe serial number location

I just bought a 1936 coupe and wondered where the serial number that is on the title is located. I assume somewhere on the block?

If it has a 1936 block the number is STAMPED into a raised pad next to the fuel pump.
The 1936 engine (serial) numbers ranged from 5500179-6784512

Thanks Chev Nut. Block casting has 836010-3. I will check for stamped number tomorrow when I have some light. My title number is not in the serial number range you noted for the engine. Did they get the title number somewhere else?

The title number could be the car serial number and not the engine serial number.

If you don't know where the car serial number is, there should be on a plate on the passenger side floor by the battery access opening. Other information like assembly plant, model, month will also be included. Example 02FC05 32011

02 - Tarrytown plant
FC - 1936 Standard
05 - May 1936
32011 - 22,011th car made at Tarrytown for 36 production(numbers started at 1001)

Actually, since the car serial numbers started at 1,001, your example should be 31011 instead of 22011.

You are so right. And I always thought I was good at math!

I found the metal tag under the floor mat next to the battery, and it matches the title number. The raised pad on the engine block behind the fuel pump was painted, but even when I scraped off the paint, I can't see any stamped numbers. I might try some chalk and a strong light a little later. Right now trying to figure out why the battery is not getting a charge from the generator. Former owner had the battery hooked up positive ground. I switched it, but no joy as yet on charging. I get increasing voltage at the generator when I rev the engine and put my meter across the regulator. I need to do some reading on how to check things out.

When you reversed the battery cables back to negative ground, did you repolarize the generator? The generator has to be repolarized. You will have to reverse the wires on the back of the ammeter as well.

If your 1936 coupe still has the original charging system, then it does not have a voltage regulator. It has a cut-out relay that sits on top of the generator and a cut-out is basically just an on-off switch for the charging system.

Thanks, Junkyard Dog. You are right that is no voltage regulator. I meant the cutout relay. I haven't repolarized as yet, but will next. The former owner had just put the battery in and it wasn't charging in the positive ground configuration for him (he didn't know he had it hooked up backwards). The ammeter was showing charge when I switched on the lights and discharge when I revved the engine. After reconnecting the battery to negative ground, the ammeter now properly shows discharge when I turn on the lights, but also discharge when I rev the engine. A voltmeter at the battery shows less than 6 volts battery voltage regardless of engine speed.

After you repolarize the generator, check the voltage on the battery. If still no voltage coming in then test the voltage on the upstream side of generator (generator side of the cut-out). If you have output then pull the cover on the cut-out and see if the points are closing. If the points are not closing then you probably have an issue with the cut-out. Hopefully, when you repolarize the generator that will cure your problem.

If not already in your library, here's a manual you'll want for reference. Priceless.

http://www.amazon.com/CHEVROLET-FACTORY-SERVICE-Delivery-trucks/dp/B00ITTTAIM

Thanks. Repolarizing did the trick! Now on to why the clutch rattles so badly while sitting at idle and when in gear going down the road. Just a touch with the foot damps it out. I am guessing throw-out bearing. Maybe there is a way to lubricate it.

Great! I figured that it would.

Not that common. Most states used the engine number for registration prior to 1955.